The world of bouldering is constantly evolving, with new problems being established and old ones being repeated, refined, and debated. One of the most common discussions in the climbing community revolves around the hardest boulder problem ever climbed.
While grades can give a general idea of difficulty, bouldering is highly subjective. A problem that feels impossible for one climber might be perfectly suited to another’s strengths. The hardest problem isn’t just about the grade—it’s about style, personal limitations, and the specific physical and mental challenges a climb presents.
Table of Contents
The Hardest Problems
Certain boulder problems stand out as the pinnacle of difficulty. Currently, three problems, all graded V17 (9A), are widely considered the hardest in the world.
Burden of Dreams (V17/9A) – Finland
First climbed by Nalle Hukkataival in 2016, Burden of Dreams in Lappnor, Finland, is widely considered one of the most technically demanding problems. The climb consists of micro-crimps on an overhanging face, requiring impeccable finger strength, precision, and body tension.
For years, this problem remained unrepeated, solidifying its reputation as a true test of pure strength and technique. In 2023, William Bosi made the long-awaited second ascent, further confirming its status as one of the hardest problems in the world.
Who It Suits Best: Climbers with extremely strong fingers, impeccable crimping ability, and precise footwork will excel here. Those with a gymnastic, dynamic style may struggle due to the static nature of the moves.
Return of the Sleepwalker (V17) – USA
This problem, located in Red Rock Canyon, Nevada, was first ascended by Daniel Woods in 2021. A sit-start extension to Sleepwalker (V16), this problem adds several additional difficult moves before linking into the already tough climb.
Woods trained extensively for this problem, emphasizing power endurance, tension, and explosive movement. It requires not only incredible strength but also the ability to execute high-intensity moves in sequence with little room for error.
Who It Suits Best: Climbers with explosive power and endurance will have an advantage here. If you’re comfortable with tension-based climbing and high-intensity sequences, this climb will suit your style.
Alphane (V17) – Switzerland
Shawn Raboutou stunned the climbing world in 2022 when he completed Alphane in Chironico, Switzerland, becoming the first climber to establish a new V17 since Burden of Dreams. This climb, which has since been repeated by top climbers like Aidan Roberts and William Bosi, features a mix of intricate toe hooks, compression moves, and powerful crimps.
What makes Alphane unique is its diversity of movement. Unlike Burden of Dreams, which is strictly a crimp testpiece, or Return of the Sleepwalker, which is power-based, Alphane requires a blend of strength, technique, and problem-solving skills.
Who It Suits Best: Climbers with strong toe-hooking ability, body tension, and a mix of crimping and compression strength will find this problem within their skill set.
The Subjectivity of the Hardest Boulder Problem
From my own experience, I’ve realized that the “hardest” boulder problem is not just about the grade. It’s about how the climb plays into or against your strengths. For example, my climbing style is more dynamic—I thrive on coordination and explosive movement. This means a problem like Return of the Sleepwalker, which requires high-power endurance, might suit me better than a static, precision-based problem like Burden of Dreams.
But for another climber, the exact opposite could be true. A friend of mine, who excels at static, methodical movement, finds crimpy, technical problems easier than coordination-based ones. While I might struggle on a problem like Burden of Dreams, they might feel completely at home on it.
This is what makes bouldering so unique. The difficulty of a climb is not just about the number assigned to it—it’s about your personal strengths, weaknesses, and what styles you naturally excel at.
What Is the Hardest Boulder Problem?
At the end of the day, the hardest bouldering problem is a matter of perspective. While Burden of Dreams, Return of the Sleepwalker, and Alphane all push the limits of human ability, the true hardest climb will always depend on the individual.
For some, a problem with small crimps and static movement will feel impossible. For others, a powerful, tension-heavy climb will be the ultimate test. The key is understanding your own strengths and weaknesses and choosing projects that challenge and inspire you.
So, when someone asks, “What is the hardest boulder problem in the world?” the best answer might just be: It depends on who you ask.
Will There Ever Be a V18/9A+?
Watching the sport evolve, it feels inevitable that we will see a confirmed V18 (9A+) in the near future. Climbing is progressing at an unbelievable pace. Problems that once seemed impossible are now being repeated and even downgraded as new training techniques and climbing technologies emerge.
There are already whispers about potential V18s—either existing projects that haven’t been graded yet or future first ascents. Some climbers speculate that an extended version of Burden of Dreams or Return of the Sleepwalker could push into V18 territory. Others believe a completely new problem will be established at a difficulty level beyond anything we’ve seen before.
I can’t help but wonder what the next generation of climbers will achieve. Just a decade ago, V17 was unthinkable. Now, we have multiple confirmed V17s. The way things are going, it’s only a matter of time before someone unlocks the first true V18.
FAQs
What is currently considered the hardest boulder problem in the world?
Several problems are contenders for the title of the hardest boulder problem in the world, all graded at V17 (9A). Some of the most discussed include Burden of Dreams in Finland, Return of the Sleepwalker in the USA, and Alphane in Switzerland. Each of these problems presents unique challenges that test different aspects of climbing ability, from extreme crimp strength to power endurance and technical toe-hooking skills.
Has Burden of Dreams been repeated?
Yes, Burden of Dreams was first climbed by Nalle Hukkataival in 2016 and remained unrepeated for seven years. In 2023, William Bosi made the second ascent, confirming its difficulty and cementing its reputation as one of the most challenging boulder problems in the world.
What makes a boulder problem “hardest” – is it just the grade?
While the grade gives a general idea of difficulty, the hardest boulder problem is ultimately subjective. A climb that is nearly impossible for one climber might align perfectly with another’s strengths. Some problems favor static precision and finger strength, while others demand dynamic power and endurance. What’s considered the hardest will always depend on a climber’s individual style and abilities.
Which boulder problem is the best suited for my climbing style?
If you excel at crimping and static movement, Burden of Dreams might be a better fit for you. If you are powerful and thrive on compression and endurance, Return of the Sleepwalker could be your style. For those who like a mix of crimp strength, toe hooks, and body tension, Alphane offers a balanced test of all these skills. Identifying your strengths and weaknesses can help determine which hard problem would suit you best.
How do climbers prepare for these extreme boulder problems?
Climbing at the V17 level requires years of focused training, including finger strength development, endurance training, and refining technique. Many climbers dedicate months or even years to specific projects, using replica holds and movement drills to fine-tune their approach. Mental preparation is equally crucial, as the difficulty of these problems demands resilience, problem-solving, and the ability to push through repeated failure before success.
