Alphane V17/9A

Grade: V17/9A

Location: Chironico, Switzerland

First Ascent: Shawn Raboutou (April 6, 2022)

Moves: ~20


Table of Contents


The Moves

Nestled in the granite-rich woods of Chironico, Switzerland, Alphane is a 20-move journey that blends power and precision across a steep, clean face. The problem, discovered by Dave Graham in the early 2000s and initially deemed too difficult, consists of a V14 sequence leading into a V15 crux before finishing with a “relatively easy” V10 top-out.


Visa detta inlägg på Instagram

Ett inlägg delat av William Bosi (@will_bosi)

The route starts with powerful crimps and transitions into more open-hand moves supported by heel hooks and technical drop knees. This middle section demands careful body positioning and balance, with climbers required to navigate through multiple style transitions. The diversity of movement—from brute strength to intricate technique—demands mastery of numerous climbing disciplines. According to Giuliano Cameroni, Alphane is both “extremely powerful and extremely technical,” a balance that few boulder problems achieve.


Conquering Alphane

First Ascent

Shawn Raboutou completed Alphane’s first ascent on April 6, 2022, after roughly 25 sessions. For Raboutou, the difficulty lay not in the individual moves but in linking them together. As he approached the send, he limited himself to two attempts per session to preserve energy for the long and complex climb. After his success, Daniel Woods and Jimmy Webb encouraged him to suggest V17 for the grade, making it one of the hardest boulders in the world. True to his understated style, Raboutou kept his achievement under wraps for nearly four months before announcing the ascent.

Second Ascent

On October 19, 2022, Aidan Roberts became the second climber to conquer Alphane, dedicating 20 days to the project—the longest he had ever spent on a boulder. Roberts emphasized that the difficulty came from the transitions and overall complexity of the climb rather than isolated moves. He shared his approach to problem-solving during the project, breaking down every move and refining his beta with meticulous attention to detail. His success reinforced Alphane’s reputation as a problem that tests both physical and mental endurance.

Third Ascent

Just two weeks later, on October 31, 2022, Will Bosi made the third ascent. While Bosi acknowledged the climb’s difficulty, he expressed uncertainty about the grade, noting that it felt softer than other V17s like Burden of Dreams. Despite this, he respected the original grade and agreed that Alphane is a significant benchmark in modern bouldering.

Additional Ascents

  • December 15, 2022: Simon Lorenzi completed the fourth ascent after dedicating several sessions to the project throughout the year.
  • December 21, 2023: Jakob Schubert made the fifth ascent, adding Alphane to his remarkable climbing résumé, which includes the world’s hardest sport climb (Perfecto Mundo, 9c) and a ticket to the Paris Olympics.

FAQs

What makes Alphane unique compared to other V17 boulders?

Alphane combines diverse climbing styles, requiring both raw power and intricate technique. Climbers must navigate through three distinct sections: powerful crimps, technical open-hand moves, and a V10 top-out.

How long does it typically take to send Alphane?

Climbers have spent between 20 to 25 days projecting Alphane. The complexity of the transitions and the endurance required make it a significant challenge.

Is Alphane widely accepted as V17?

While most climbers agree with the V17 grade, some, like Will Bosi, have suggested it may feel softer than other problems of the same grade. Its difficulty remains undeniable, and it is one of the most repeated V17s.


More Media