Return of the Sleepwalker V17/9A

Grade: V17/9A

Location: Black Velvet Canyon, Nevada, United States

First Ascent: Daniel Woods (March 30, 2021)

Moves: 17


Table of Contents


The Moves

Return of the Sleepwalker, located in the stunning Black Velvet Canyon, is a masterpiece of modern bouldering. This 17-move problem begins with a six-move V13 sit start that seamlessly transitions into the established V16 boulder Sleepwalker. The sit start, envisioned by Daniel Woods, raises the climb to V17, adding layers of complexity and endurance to an already legendary problem.


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The route requires climbers to navigate a sequence of challenging moves with no rest. Jimmy Webb, who first climbed Sleepwalker, described every move as being at least V9 or V10, culminating in a massive move to a sloper with a small incut crimp in the back. From there, a powerful left-hand throw leads to the victory jug, marking the end of this high-stakes climb.

Every move demands pinpoint accuracy, and efficiency is paramount to conserve energy for the final, low-percentage moves. By adding a V13 section at the beginning, Return of the Sleepwalker elevates the difficulty to the ultimate level, testing the limits of precision, strength, and mental fortitude.


Conquering Return of the Sleepwalker

First Ascent

Daniel Woods completed the first ascent of Return of the Sleepwalker on March 30, 2021, following a grueling three-month battle. His commitment to the project was total—he altered his lifestyle, cutting out alcohol, caffeine, and other distractions to focus entirely on the climb.

For much of the process, Woods worked in isolation, camping near the boulder and reviewing footage to refine his beta. His perseverance paid off after he climbed the stand start (Sleepwalker) 15–20 times during his preparation, once completing it four times in a single session. On the day of his success, Woods climbed Return of the Sleepwalker on his first redpoint attempt, solidifying it as the United States’ hardest boulder problem at the time.

Reflecting on the mental and physical toll, Woods described the climb as much a psychological battle as a physical one. He found purpose in the process, emphasizing the personal growth he experienced along the way, regardless of the outcome.

Second Ascent

Almost three years later, on February 20, 2024, Will Bosi made the first repeat of Return of the Sleepwalker. After spending time mastering the stand start (Sleepwalker), which he controversially downgraded from V16 to V15, Bosi tackled the sit start and confirmed the V17 grade for the full problem.

Bosi’s ascent marked a significant milestone as he became the first climber to complete three confirmed V17 boulders, further solidifying his status as one of the strongest climbers in the world. His efforts have reignited interest in Return of the Sleepwalker as one of the hardest boulders on the planet.


FAQs

What makes Return of the Sleepwalker so challenging?

The climb combines a V13 sit start directly into the V16 Sleepwalker, requiring immense precision, endurance, and strength to complete the 17 moves without rest.

Who has climbed Return of the Sleepwalker?

The first ascent was completed by Daniel Woods in 2021, followed by Will Bosi in 2024. Both climbers confirmed the V17 grade.

Why is Return of the Sleepwalker significant in bouldering?

It is one of the few confirmed V17 problems in the world and represents the cutting edge of bouldering difficulty.


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