Burden of Dreams V17/9A

Grade: V17/9A

Location: Lappnor, Finland

First Ascent: Nalle Hukkataival (October 23, 2016)

Moves: 8


Table of Contents


The Moves

Burden of Dreams is an eight-move testpiece etched onto a 4-meter granite face in Lappnor, Finland. With a perfect 45° angle and razor-sharp crimps, this problem offers no modern conveniences like heel hooks or kneebars. Instead, it demands unparalleled precision, body tension, and finger strength.


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The climb begins with a compression sequence on two sharp opposing crimps. The right foot is extended to a slick edge, while the left foot balances precariously on a tiny chip. The crux starts immediately with a challenging move to a “D-shaped” crimp, requiring absolute precision to stick while maintaining body tension on poor footholds. The sequence progresses with a left-hand flag under the right foot to reach an intermediary crimp, then transitions into a gaston, with the right hand matching as a pinch.

The penultimate move is a dynamic launch to a sloper under the lip, achieved by cutting loose with both feet and sticking the hold with the left hand. The mantle top-out, while less challenging than the rest of the problem, still demands careful execution to finish this legendary boulder.


Conquering Burden of Dreams

First Ascent

Nalle Hukkataival’s journey to Burden of Dreams began in 2013 when he first attempted what was then known as the “Lappnor Project.” Despite his experience, the sheer difficulty of the moves kept Nalle from completing even a single move in isolation during his initial sessions. Over the next three years and more than 4,000 attempts, he worked methodically, breaking the problem into sections and focusing on incremental progress.

In 2016, after dedicating multiple climbing seasons, Nalle finally linked the sequences. On October 23, during what was supposed to be a rest day, Nalle returned to the boulder alone. With perfect conditions and years of preparation, he sent the problem in a smooth, controlled fashion, making history with the first-ever V17 boulder. His ascent was a monumental achievement, heralding a new era of difficulty in modern bouldering.

Second Ascent

Nearly seven years later, on April 12, 2023, Scottish climber Will Bosi made the first repeat of Burden of Dreams. Bosi’s journey began months earlier on a replica of the route built at Lattice Training in Chesterfield, England. After 10 sessions on the replica, he headed to Finland, where he spent three weeks battling the sharp holds, limited attempts per day, and unpredictable weather.

To adapt to the problem’s demands, Bosi used mismatched climbing shoes: a Five Ten Hiangle on his right foot for tension on steep footholds and a Hiangle Pro on his left for precision through the crux. On his successful attempt, Bosi completed the climb in just 52 seconds, describing it as the hardest boulder he had ever climbed. His ascent further validated the V17 grade and cemented Burden of Dreams as one of the most challenging boulder problems in the world.

Future Prospects

Other climbers, including Shawn Raboutou, Aidan Roberts, and Stefano Ghisolfi, have begun attempts on Burden of Dreams, signaling that more ascents may be on the horizon. As training techniques and replicas improve, this boulder remains a coveted goal for elite climbers.


FAQs

Why is Burden of Dreams so difficult?

The problem consists of just eight moves, but each one requires extreme precision, finger strength, and body tension. Its unique style lacks modern bouldering conveniences like heel hooks or kneebars, making every move a significant challenge.

How long did it take for the first ascent?

Nalle Hukkataival spent over three years, six climbing seasons, and more than 4,000 attempts before successfully completing the first ascent in October 2016.

Who has repeated Burden of Dreams?

Will Bosi made the first repeat in April 2023 after training extensively on a replica and spending three weeks in Finland projecting the route.


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