Cave climbing is a unique fusion of rock climbing and caving, demanding not just physical strength and technical skill but a deep mental resolve. The darkness, humidity, and often claustrophobic passages create an environment where each move must be deliberate and precise. My first experience with cave climbing was a mix of exhilaration and trepidation—navigating narrow chimneys, trusting barely-there holds, and feeling the echo of every breath off the limestone walls. The adrenaline rush was unlike anything I had felt on open rock faces.
In this article, we’ll delve into the history of cave climbing, how the term was coined, its impact on the climbing community, and some of the most iconic cave climbs in the world. Along the way, I’ll share personal insights and tips for those looking to venture underground.
Table of Contents
The History of Cave Climbing
Cave climbing’s roots can be traced back to spelunking (or caving) in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, primarily in Europe. While traditional caving focused on exploration and mapping, a subset of these adventurers began to tackle vertical and overhanging sections within caves that demanded more advanced climbing techniques. By the 1960s and 70s, cave climbing had evolved into a recognized discipline, blending elements of sport climbing with the technical rigors of speleology.
The term cave climbing was popularized in the 1980s as climbing gear advanced and routes within caves became more established. Unlike traditional rock climbing, which often features open vistas and clear routes, cave climbing requires navigating dark, tight passages and solving three-dimensional problems with limited visibility. This shift in environment brought a new psychological challenge, turning cave climbs into a test of both mental and physical endurance.
What Makes Cave Climbing Unique?
Cave climbing is characterized by its complex, three-dimensional routes, often involving a mix of chimneys, cracks, roofs, and overhangs. The holds can be unpredictable—slippery from humidity, sharp from calcite formations, or coated with mud and guano. The darkness and confined spaces demand meticulous route-finding and efficient movement to conserve energy.
There’s also a psychological aspect to cave climbing that sets it apart. The absence of natural light, combined with the muffled acoustics and echoing drips, creates an eerie isolation. I remember my first deep cave climb vividly—fighting not just the pump in my forearms but the instinctual unease of being so far below ground. The key was maintaining a steady rhythm and resisting the urge to rush, trusting each hold despite the darkness.
Iconic Cave Climbing Routes
Some of the most challenging and beautiful routes in the world lie hidden in caves, requiring a mix of endurance, power, and mental fortitude. Here are a few iconic cave climbs that have defined the sport:
La Planta de Shiva (9b/5.15b) – Villanueva del Rosario, Spain
This 45-meter route in a limestone cave is known for its relentless overhangs and powerful cruxes. Adam Ondra made the first ascent, describing it as one of the most physically demanding routes he had ever attempted. The combination of endurance-based sequences and powerful lock-offs makes it a true test of cave climbing mastery.
Flatanger Cave – Norway
Home to the world’s first 9c/5.15d, “Silence,” established by Adam Ondra, Flatanger is a granite cave with smooth, sloping holds and massive roof sections. Climbing here is as much about body positioning and footwork as it is about finger strength, with kneebars and inverted moves being crucial to conserving energy.
Ali Baba (8a+/5.13c) – Verdon Gorge, France
This route weaves through a cave’s overhangs with exposed sequences that require precise footwork and confident movement. The exposure and constant pump make for an unforgettable experience—each clip a small victory against gravity.
Each of these climbs has pushed the boundaries of what’s possible, inspiring climbers worldwide to embrace the unique demands of cave climbing.
My Experience with Cave Climbing
One of the most memorable cave climbs I attempted was “The Darkness Beckons” (7a+/5.12a)—a 25-meter route in a sea cave with a brutal roof section and sharp limestone holds. The crux involved a series of heel hooks and hand jams on slick tufas, demanding precise movement to avoid an explosive pump. On my first attempt, I fell halfway through the crux, forearms on fire and headlamp casting wild shadows.
The isolation was palpable. Unlike open crags where you can pause to appreciate the view, the cave walls seemed to close in with every move. But that isolation also sharpened my focus—each hold felt more deliberate, each breath more controlled. It took six attempts spread over two days, refining beta and dialing in rest positions, but the eventual send was one of the most satisfying moments of my climbing journey.
The Impact of Cave Climbing on the Climbing Community
Cave climbing has influenced modern climbing in several ways:
- Movement Techniques: The need for three-dimensional movement—such as kneebars, bat hangs, and full-body scumming—has expanded the repertoire of what’s possible on vertical terrain.
- Training Evolution: Climbers now incorporate cave-specific training, focusing on core strength, shoulder stability, and grip endurance.
- Psychological Fortitude: The mental challenge of climbing in confined, dark spaces has helped climbers develop greater focus and stress management skills.
For many climbers, the appeal of cave climbing lies in the mix of adventure and technical challenge, blending the thrill of exploration with the precision of gymnastic movement.
Essential Gear for Cave Climbing
- Headlamp: A reliable headlamp with extra batteries is crucial for visibility.
- Sticky Rubber Shoes: Precision is key; choose shoes with a downturned profile for overhangs. Try Senderella for a personalized recommendation!
- Long Draws: Caves often have extended bolts; long draws minimize rope drag.
- Gloves: Helps protect hands on sharp, calcite-covered holds.
Cave climbing is a powerful blend of strategy, strength, and psychological resilience. The darkness strips away distractions, leaving just you, the rock, and the echoes of your own breath. Each move demands full commitment—there’s no resting on ledges or basking in the sun between cruxes. But that’s the beauty of it.
If you’re looking to test your limits—both physically and mentally—cave climbing offers an adventure like no other. From the world-class roofs of Flatanger to local sea caves, the darkness beckons those willing to push deeper into the unknown.
FAQs
What is cave climbing?
Cave climbing involves ascending routes within caves, often featuring overhangs, roofs, and complex three-dimensional movement in dark and confined spaces.
How is cave climbing different from rock climbing?
Cave climbing typically involves more overhangs, humidity, and the need for a headlamp, demanding different techniques and gear.
What gear do you need for cave climbing?
A headlamp, sticky rubber shoes, long draws, gloves, and potentially a harness with extra gear loops for extended routes.
Where are the best cave climbing spots?
Top spots include Flatanger Cave in Norway, Ali Baba in France, and Grotta dell’Arenauta in Italy.
Is cave climbing safe?
With proper gear, training, and route knowledge, cave climbing can be safe, though the darkness and humidity add complexity.
