Yosemite National Park is more than a stunning natural landscape; it’s the cradle of modern rock climbing and the home of the Yosemite Decimal System (YDS), a globally recognized grading scale. This iconic grading system provides climbers with a framework to measure technical difficulty, making it a cornerstone of climbing culture.
From the early days of big wall climbing to modern free solo feats, Yosemite has shaped climbing in ways no other place has. I’ve always admired the history and challenge of Yosemite’s granite walls, and understanding the evolution of its grading system has deepened my appreciation for the sport.

Table of Contents
- The History of Yosemite Climbing
- The Yosemite Decimal System (YDS)
- Yosemite: The Epicenter of Free Climbing
- The Big Wall Experience
- Yosemite's Influence on Climbing Ethics
- Modern Achievements: Free Solos and Speed Records
- Lessons from the Yosemite Decimal System
- Grade Conversion: Yosemite Decimal System vs. French Grade
- FAQs
The History of Yosemite Climbing
Climbing in Yosemite began humbly in the early 20th century with adventurers exploring the granite cliffs of the Sierra Nevada. However, the 1950s and 60s marked a golden era, with visionaries like Royal Robbins, Warren Harding, and Yvon Chouinard forging routes on El Capitan, Half Dome, and Sentinel Rock.
These climbers not only opened up some of the most challenging routes but also laid the groundwork for climbing ethics and techniques, including the development of aid climbing and a minimalist approach that respected the environment.

The Yosemite Decimal System (YDS)
As climbing became more popular, the need for a standardized way to describe difficulty arose. The Yosemite Decimal System was adapted from a hiking classification system to grade technical rock climbing routes. Here’s how it works:
- Class 1 to Class 4:
Describes terrain ranging from easy walking (Class 1) to exposed scrambling (Class 4) that may require rope for safety but involves simple movements. - Class 5:
The start of technical climbing, requiring ropes and protection. Class 5 is divided further into sub-grades using decimals and letters (e.g., 5.6 to 5.15d).

Breaking Down Class 5 Grades:
- 5.0 to 5.5: Easy routes suitable for beginners.
- 5.6 to 5.8: Moderate climbs that introduce basic techniques like smearing and edging.
- 5.9 to 5.10: Advanced routes with complex sequences and physical challenges.
- 5.11 to 5.12: Difficult climbs demanding excellent technique, strength, and problem-solving skills.
- 5.13 to 5.15: The cutting edge of climbing, reserved for elite athletes.
Yosemite: The Epicenter of Free Climbing
The 1970s and 80s brought a revolution in climbing style with the rise of free climbing—ascending routes using only hands and feet, with gear used solely for protection. Climbers like Lynn Hill, who famously free climbed The Nose on El Capitan, elevated Yosemite’s reputation as the proving ground for skill and innovation.
Free climbing’s emphasis on technique and movement brought new energy to Yosemite, inspiring a generation to redefine what was possible on rock.

The Big Wall Experience
For climbers, Yosemite’s big walls, such as El Capitan and Half Dome, are the ultimate challenge. Ascending these massive faces often takes days, requiring climbers to live on the wall using portaledges, haul bags, and meticulous planning.
Routes like The Nose, Zodiac, and Salathé Wall combine aid climbing and free climbing, testing endurance, technical ability, and mental fortitude.
Yosemite’s Influence on Climbing Ethics
Yosemite climbers championed the clean climbing movement, using removable protection to minimize environmental impact. This ethic, rooted in respect for nature, has influenced climbing areas worldwide, promoting sustainability and conservation.

Modern Achievements: Free Solos and Speed Records
In 2017, Alex Honnold stunned the world by free soloing El Capitan’s Freerider route (5.13a) without ropes, documented in the Oscar-winning film Free Solo. I highly recommend this film to any climber—it offers incredible insight into fear, adaptability, and the mental strength needed to push past your limits.
Yosemite also hosts the thrill of speed climbing, with climbers like Tommy Caldwell and Honnold setting records on The Nose in under two hours. These feats underscore the park’s enduring role as the ultimate testing ground.
Lessons from the Yosemite Decimal System
The YDS isn’t just about numbers—it represents a mindset. Climbing in Yosemite taught me that firsthand. I remember my first attempt on a Yosemite 5.10, thinking my gym-honed skills would carry me through. The reality hit hard. The polished granite, tiny crimps, and long runouts were nothing like the controlled indoor setting I was used to. It forced me to slow down, plan my moves, and truly respect the history behind these climbs.
Tackling Yosemite’s grades isn’t just about pushing limits—it’s about learning humility, patience, and adaptability. Every climb is a lesson in problem-solving, and every struggle brings a deeper appreciation for the connection between movement and nature. Yosemite has a way of stripping away ego and leaving only raw, honest climbing. It’s why I keep coming back.

Yosemite and its Decimal System remain pivotal in the climbing world. From its storied granite walls to its benchmarks of difficulty, the park continues to push climbers to their limits.
Whether you’re dreaming of a big wall ascent, tackling a classic crack climb, or simply soaking in the history, Yosemite invites you to join a legacy of exploration and achievement.
Yosemite isn’t just a climbing destination—it’s a symbol of the limitless possibilities within the climbing community.
Grade Conversion: Yosemite Decimal System vs. French Grade
YDS Grade | French Grade |
---|---|
5.5 | 4a |
5.6 | 4b |
5.7 | 4c |
5.8 | 5a |
5.9 | 5b |
5.10a | 5c |
5.10b | 6a |
5.10c | 6a+ |
5.10d | 6b |
5.11a | 6b+ |
5.11b | 6c |
5.11c | 6c+ |
5.11d | 7a |
5.12a | 7a+ |
5.12b | 7b |
5.12c | 7b+ |
5.12d | 7c |
5.13a | 7c+ |
5.13b | 8a |
5.13c | 8a+ |
5.13d | 8b |
5.14a | 8b+ |
5.14b | 8c |
5.14c | 8c+ |
5.14d | 9a |
5.15a | 9a+ |
5.15b | 9b |
5.15c | 9b+ |
5.15d | 9c |
FAQs
What is the Yosemite Decimal System?
The Yosemite Decimal System (YDS) is a grading system used in North America to classify climbing routes based on technical difficulty, starting from Class 5 for technical rock climbing.
How is the YDS scale structured?
The YDS ranges from Class 1 (walking) to Class 5 (technical climbing), with subdivisions from 5.0 to 5.15d for increasingly difficult routes.
Why is Yosemite significant in climbing history?
Yosemite is home to legendary climbers, iconic routes, and innovations in techniques and ethics. Its granite walls have shaped the sport globally.
Are Yosemite grades harder than other regions?
Yosemite grades can feel tougher due to the park’s demanding style, crack climbing techniques, and historical context. Climbers often find its routes more challenging than similar grades elsewhere.
Is the YDS used outside the U.S.?
While the YDS is standard in North America, other regions use grading systems like the French or UIAA scales. However, Yosemite grades are frequently referenced worldwide due to the park’s fame.