Types of Climbing Holds: How to Use Each One

When it comes to climbing, understanding the types of climbing holds is essential. Whether you’re training on a wooden climbing hold at home or tackling challenging routes with varied holds, mastering grip techniques is crucial for progress.

In this guide, we’ll break down the most common types of climbing holds, explain how to use them effectively, and offer tips to improve your climbing performance. Whether you’re scaling an indoor wall or navigating natural rock features, these insights will elevate your skills.


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Why Knowing Types of Climbing Holds is Important

Climbing is about more than just strength—it’s about strategy and energy efficiency. Each type of rock climbing hold requires a specific technique to ensure maximum grip and minimal energy wastage. For instance, using the correct grip on a sloper can prevent unnecessary fatigue, while pinches demand careful hand positioning to maintain balance.

A climber carefully gripping a yellow hold on an indoor climbing wall, displaying concentration and effort.
A focused climber grasping a brightly colored handhold on an indoor wall.

If you’re training at home using wooden climbing holds, these techniques become even more critical. Wooden holds are smooth, requiring precision and control, which translates well to outdoor climbing scenarios.


Common Types of Climbing Holds

1. Crimp Holds

Crimps are some of the most common types of rock climbing holds. These small edges challenge your finger strength and precision, offering space for only your fingertips.

  • Full Crimp: Fingers bend tightly, with the thumb pressing over the index finger. This provides maximum grip but increases tendon strain.
  • Open Crimp: Fingers rest on the edge without bending as sharply, reducing strain on tendons while sacrificing some grip power.
Close-up of a climber’s chalked hands gripping a narrow crimp hold on a rock face, highlighting strength and precision
Close-up of chalked hands gripping a thin crack on a rough rock surface.

Technique: Stay close to the wall to shift weight to your feet. Use the full crimp position sparingly to avoid overloading your tendons, especially during prolonged climbs.


2. Jug Holds

Jugs are among the easiest types of climbing holds to use, making them ideal for beginners. These large, comfortable holds allow you to grip securely with your whole hand.

A climber's hand gripping a textured orange climbing hold on an indoor climbing wall, highlighting technique and grip strength.
Close-up of a climber’s hand gripping a bright orange jug hold on a climbing wall, dusted with chalk for better grip.

Technique: Wrap your fingers and thumb fully around the hold. Use jugs as rest points, shaking out your arms to recover before moving on to tougher sections.


3. Pinch Holds

Pinches test your grip strength by requiring you to squeeze between your fingers and thumb. These holds vary in width and shape, offering unique challenges.

A pinch climbing hold on a wall, with a narrow, elongated shape requiring precise hand positioning.
The pinch hold challenges climbers to use finger strength and technique for a solid grip.

Technique: Squeeze the hold firmly while keeping your hands relaxed. Balance your weight using your feet to avoid over-exertion, especially when pinches are part of a longer route.


4. Sloper Holds

Slopers are featureless, rounded holds that rely on friction rather than finger strength. These holds require excellent body positioning to navigate successfully.

Close-up of a climber's hand firmly gripping a rugged rock, illustrating precise hand positioning during a climb.
A close-up of a climber’s hand gripping a rugged rock surface, showcasing strength and focus.

Technique: Flatten your hand against the hold to maximize contact and friction. Keep your body weight aligned with the hold’s direction, and lower your center of gravity to maintain stability.


5. Pocket Holds

Pocket holds are recessed grips with small openings that accommodate one to three fingers. They’re particularly challenging due to the stress they place on individual fingers.

A pocket climbing hold with a small inset for fingers, mounted on an indoor climbing wall.
This pocket hold tests finger strength with its small recessed grip, perfect for advanced climbing routes.

Technique: Use your middle and ring fingers to grip pockets, as they’re your strongest. Avoid over-gripping or placing your pinky finger inside pockets, as this can lead to strain or injury.


6. Volume Holds

Volumes are large, angular shapes often used in climbing gyms to create dynamic routes. These structures can be combined with other types of climbing holds for added complexity.

A large volume climbing hold with multiple smaller holds attached, set on an angular climbing wall.
The versatile volume hold adds complexity to routes, offering multiple grip options and dynamic movement challenges.

Technique: Explore all edges and surfaces for gripping or balancing. Volumes often require friction-based techniques and creative movement to navigate effectively.


7. Crack Holds

Crack holds mimic natural rock features where climbers can wedge parts of their body, such as fingers, hands, or feet, to gain leverage. They’re an integral part of traditional climbing techniques.

A climber using traditional gear while maneuvering through a crack in a granite wall, illustrating precise crack climbing techniques
A climber slots their hand into a rock crack while climbing, using specialized gear attached to their harness.

Technique: For smaller cracks, insert your fingers and twist them to create tension. For wider cracks, use hand jams or foot jams, twisting to wedge securely.


8. Undercling Holds

Undercling holds are gripped from below and require upward pulling. These holds challenge your core strength and demand precise foot placement for balance.

An undercling climbing hold on a wall, requiring upward pulling motion to maintain grip.
The undercling hold adds variety to routes, demanding a unique pulling motion and core engagement.

Technique: Pull upward on the undercling while keeping your feet positioned high on the wall. Use your core muscles to maintain stability as you move past the hold.


Training with Wooden Climbing Holds

Wooden climbing holds are a great addition to your training routine. Their smooth texture prevents excessive skin wear, making them ideal for finger strength exercises like hangboarding.

  • Tip: Incorporate a mix of holds, from crimps to slopers, to develop a well-rounded grip.
  • Home Wall Advantage: Wooden holds are perfect for home walls, providing a natural feel that mimics outdoor climbing.

Key Tips for Mastering Types of Climbing Holds

  1. Grip Efficiency: Use only the amount of grip strength needed to stay on the hold. Over-gripping wastes energy and causes forearm fatigue.
  2. Focus on Footwork: Your feet are your foundation. Precise placement and trusting your shoes are critical for maintaining balance.
  3. Body Positioning: Align your weight with the direction of the hold to improve stability and grip.
  4. Strength Gradually: Build finger strength over time to avoid injuries from holds like crimps and pockets.
  5. Train Variety: Practice on different types of rock climbing holds to prepare for diverse routes.

Mastering the types of climbing holds takes practice, patience, and proper technique. Whether you’re tackling routes with wooden climbing holds at home or navigating complex rock faces outdoors, a solid understanding of hold types will help you climb smarter and stronger.

Start integrating these tips into your routine and watch your climbing skills soar!


FAQs

How are rock climbing holds made?

Climbing holds are commonly made from polyurethane or resin, molded into various shapes. Wooden climbing holds are also used for smoother, skin-friendly training surfaces.

How do I make climbing holds at home?

To make climbing holds, use wood or resin molds. Wooden holds are easier to carve and sand, making them a great DIY option for home walls.

What is crimping in climbing?

Crimping involves gripping small edges with your fingertips. There are two main styles: full crimp (maximum grip, high tendon strain) and open crimp (less grip, reduced strain).

How do I crack climb?

Crack climbing involves jamming parts of your body into cracks for leverage. Practice finger, hand, and foot jams on simulated crack walls or natural rock formations.

Are wooden climbing holds effective for training?

Yes, wooden climbing holds are excellent for training. They reduce skin wear and help develop grip strength, making them a popular choice for home climbing walls.