Redpoint climbing is more than just a term; it’s a badge of honor earned through persistence, strategy, and the ability to push limits—both mentally and physically. The process of redpointing a route involves working through a climb’s cruxes, refining beta, and linking each move flawlessly without falling. My own experiences with redpointing have been a mix of frustration and triumph, but there’s nothing quite like the satisfaction of finally clipping the chains clean.
In this article, we’ll explore the origins of redpoint climbing, how the term was coined, its impact on the climbing community, and some of the most iconic redpoints in history. Plus, I’ll share my personal experience redpointing a classic moderate route that tested my technique and mental fortitude.
Table of Contents
What is Redpoint Climbing?
In essence, redpoint climbing means successfully leading a route from start to finish without falling or resting on the rope after practicing it. Unlike an onsight or flash, which involve sending a route cleanly on the first attempt (with or without prior beta, respectively), redpointing allows for multiple attempts to rehearse the moves, refine beta, and build the necessary strength and endurance.
The process of redpointing can vary in duration—from a single day to several months or even years for more challenging projects. It’s a game of precision, requiring not just physical strength but a mental blueprint of every move, hold, and rest.
The Origins of Redpoint Climbing
The term redpoint was coined in the late 1970s by German climber Kurt Albert. At the time, climbers were transitioning from aid climbing—where gear is used for upward progress—to free climbing, where only natural holds are used, and protection serves solely to catch falls. Albert began painting red dots at the base of routes he had climbed cleanly without falling, hence the term “redpoint.” The concept quickly spread throughout the climbing world, symbolizing the purity and commitment of free climbing.
Redpointing shifted the focus from simply reaching the top to doing so with style, efficiency, and mastery of movement. It encouraged climbers to refine their techniques and push boundaries, both physically and mentally. Today, redpointing is a fundamental part of sport climbing, representing the culmination of countless attempts, failures, and small victories on the wall.
The Impact of Redpointing on Climbing Culture
Redpointing transformed climbing from a pursuit of summits to an exploration of movement and difficulty. It encouraged climbers to embrace failure as part of the process, leading to a more nuanced appreciation of technique, endurance, and mental resilience. The focus on clean ascents also helped shape modern sport climbing ethics, emphasizing the quality of movement over simply reaching the top by any means necessary.
The pursuit of harder redpoints has driven the sport’s progression, pushing climbers to innovate with new techniques, training methods, and gear. For many, the process of redpointing—linking moves, refining beta, and battling mental fatigue—is more rewarding than the send itself.
Iconic Redpoints in Climbing History
Some of the most iconic achievements in climbing history are defined by legendary redpoints:
- Wolfgang Güllich’s “Action Directe” (9a/5.14d) – The first 9a route, setting a new standard for difficulty with its intense sequence of dynamic, one-finger pocket moves.
- Chris Sharma’s “Biographie” (9a+/5.15a) – A milestone in sport climbing with sustained difficulty and powerful cruxes.
- Adam Ondra’s “Silence” (9c/5.15d) – The hardest route in the world, featuring a sequence of near-impossible cruxes that required innovative beta and brutal finger strength.
These redpoints not only redefined what was possible but also inspired generations of climbers to pursue their own projects with renewed passion and perseverance.
My Redpoint Experience: Battle of Patience and Precision
One of the most memorable redpoints for me was a route called “Gravity Well” (5.11a/V3) at a local crag. It’s a relatively easy climb by many standards, but it was a perfect test of patience, precision, and mental endurance. The route is short but pumpy, with a bouldery crux about two-thirds of the way up—a high left foot followed by a blind slap to a sloper.
My first few attempts were a mess of poor footwork and rushed movements. I would fall at the crux, lowered to the ground with raw fingertips and a bruised ego. But each failure revealed a bit more beta—a subtle shift in weight, a better foot position, a calmer approach. After about five sessions, the moves finally clicked. I remember pulling past the crux, breathing hard but refusing to let go, and clipping the anchors with a surge of relief.
That send was a reminder of why I love redpoint climbing. It’s not just about the physical challenge but the mental game of problem-solving, patience, and persistence.
Indoor vs. Outdoor Redpointing
Redpointing indoors and outdoors are two different beasts. Indoor redpoints often involve more controlled conditions—consistent holds, predictable textures, and no environmental factors. The downside is that gym grades are notoriously soft compared to outdoor routes, making the transition to real rock a harsh wake-up call.
Outdoors, everything changes. Rock types vary wildly, and the conditions—heat, cold, humidity—can make or break an attempt. The holds are less obvious, the feet more insecure, and the routes feel significantly harder. I’ve redpointed 5.12a in the gym only to get humbled by 5.10d outside. The difference in grading and the added complexity of natural rock demand a whole new level of adaptability and mental resilience.
Routesetters play a crucial role in bridging this gap. By integrating complex movements inspired by real rock—like technical stemming, compression moves, and desperate slopers—they help indoor climbers develop skills that transfer to outdoor projects. It’s fascinating to see how real-world beta influences the way routes are set, making gyms a sort of training ground for the crags.
Tips for Redpointing Success
1. Break Down the Route: Identify cruxes and resting points, and practice them in isolation before linking the full route.
2. Refine Your Beta: Focus on efficiency, from hand sequences to foot placements. Micro-adjustments can make or break a redpoint attempt.
3. Train Specifically: Endurance and finger strength are key. Fingerboard training and ARC circuits can help build the capacity needed for longer routes.
4. Master the Mental Game: Visualization, breathing techniques, and managing fear are as important as physical preparation.
5. Accept Failure: Redpointing is a game of trial and error. Each fall is just beta for the next attempt.
Redpoint climbing is a mental and physical chess game—one that demands strategy, precision, and a willingness to fail repeatedly in pursuit of a single flawless attempt. Every redpoint, from 5.9 to 5.15, tells a story of persistence, problem-solving, and small victories. It’s about the journey as much as the send, and that’s what makes it so addictive.
Whether you’re battling a bouldery crux on a local 5.11 or projecting a big wall in Yosemite, the essence of redpoint climbing remains the same: keep trying, keep refining, and keep believing that the next attempt might just be the one.
FAQs
What does redpoint climbing mean?
Redpoint climbing is completing a route cleanly without falling or resting on the rope after practicing the moves.
How is redpoint different from onsight and flash?
An onsight is climbing a route cleanly on the first try without prior information, while a flash involves prior beta but is still done cleanly on the first attempt. Redpointing allows for practice attempts.
What’s the hardest redpoint ever achieved?
Adam Ondra’s “Silence” (9c/5.15d) in Flatanger Cave, Norway, holds the record as the hardest redpoint to date.
How can I improve my redpointing skills?
Focus on route-specific training, refining beta, building endurance, and mental techniques like visualization and controlled breathing.
Is redpointing only for sport climbing?
No, it applies to trad climbing as well, though it’s less common due to the complexities of gear placement.
