Routesetting is a unique blend of art, strategy, and movement science that transforms blank climbing walls into engaging, challenging, and inspiring problems. The role of a routesetter goes far beyond simply bolting holds onto the wall—it’s about creating sequences that challenge both the mind and body while telling a story through movement. The best routes balance difficulty and flow, keeping climbers on the edge of their abilities while ensuring a rewarding experience.
During a visit to BoulderIsland, I had the chance to experience this firsthand. Dino Dokoza-Nikpalj, the Chief Setter, shared his approach to routesetting and the immense effort it takes to design problems that resonate with climbers. As someone who has spent countless hours on both plastic and real rock, I could immediately see the artistry and dedication behind every route.
Table of Contents
What Makes a Great Route?
Creating a memorable route is about more than just difficulty; it’s about how each move connects seamlessly to the next. Dino starts his process by considering several key questions:
- What grade should the boulder be?
- What do the holds and wall angles allow me to create?
- How much space is available, and is the climb safe?
- Who are the climbers in the gym?
From there, he visualizes the climb, often beginning with the crux—the most challenging part—and working backward. This method ensures that the route feels balanced and progressive. As a climber, I’ve found that the best routes are the ones that force you to think ahead, make precise movements, and commit fully to each move.
Dino also emphasizes the importance of including an element of “sketchiness” in his climbs—not enough to cause falls but enough to keep climbers on their toes. This balance between control and risk is what makes a route truly satisfying to complete.
Indoor vs. Outdoor: Mastering the Transition
One of the biggest challenges for climbers is the transition between indoor and outdoor climbing. Indoors, you can try a move repeatedly, adjusting beta and refining technique without worrying about conditions or exposure. Outdoors, however, each attempt comes with the added stress of real rock, changing weather, and the pressure to send before your skin or daylight runs out.
Another significant difference is the grading system. Indoor grades often feel softer than their outdoor counterparts, partly because gym routes are set to be climbed in a session or two, not projected for months. The lack of true grades indoors can make it a rude awakening for gym climbers when they hit outdoor crags. I’ve experienced this firsthand, sending V6 in the gym only to get shut down by a V4 outside. The subtle differences in holds, texture, and exposure can drastically alter how a problem feels.
Routesetters like Dino often draw inspiration from outdoor climbs, incorporating sequences and moves that reflect real-world challenges. The focus on dynamic coordination and complex body positions in modern gyms is a direct result of watching elite climbers unlock hard cruxes outside. It’s fascinating to see how outdoor ascents shape the way setters think about movement and flow.
Inspiration and Themes in Routesetting
When it comes to designing routes, inspiration can come from anywhere—a recent outdoor climb, a unique hold, or even watching other climbers interpret moves. Dino’s approach is to let the holds and wall angles guide him, rather than forcing a pre-conceived idea onto the wall. This adaptability not only saves time but also leads to more natural and enjoyable climbs.
I’ve climbed routes that felt like they were telling a story—slow, deliberate moves building up to a dynamic finish or a series of powerful compression sequences that test both strength and technique. Those are the climbs that stick with you, the ones you replay in your mind long after the session ends. It’s clear that a good routesetter thinks not just about the moves themselves but about the experience they create for the climber.
Testing and Refining: Where the Real Work Begins
Setting a route is only half the battle—testing and refining is where the real work begins. Dino spends up to 70% of his time testing, climbing each problem multiple times to ensure that it flows well, is safe, and hits the intended grade. Collaborating with other setters is a crucial part of this process, providing feedback that helps fine-tune the difficulty and sequence.
The feedback loop in routesetting reminds me of projecting a boulder problem—trying different beta, refining footwork, and making slight adjustments until everything clicks. Watching Dino adjust a hold by just a few centimeters to create a better body position was a reminder of how small details can make or break a climb.
The Mental Game of Routesetting
Routesetting isn’t just physically demanding; it’s mentally exhausting too. Dino describes it as “construction-site art”—a mix of heavy lifting, creativity, and problem-solving. Each route is a reflection of the setter’s vision, and there’s a vulnerability in presenting that vision to climbers who might love it—or hate it.
As a climber, I’ve found that the routes I enjoy most are the ones that force me to pause and think. A hold just out of reach, a subtle smear, or a balance move that requires absolute commitment. Knowing the effort and thought that go into each problem has made me appreciate routesetting as an art form, not just a job.
How to Become a Routesetter
1. Build a Solid Climbing Foundation: Most setters start as dedicated climbers with a deep understanding of movement.
2. Learn from Experienced Setters: Apprenticeships are invaluable for learning the technical aspects of setting and safety standards.
3. Develop Creativity: Routesetting is as much about innovation as it is about difficulty. The best setters constantly push the boundaries of what’s possible.
4. Obtain Certification: Consider programs like the USAC Routesetting Course to gain formal credentials.
5. Practice, Practice, Practice: Setting routes regularly hones both creativity and efficiency.
Routesetting is about more than making climbs hard; it’s about making them memorable. It’s a craft that requires creativity, a deep understanding of movement, and the willingness to put in the time to refine each problem until it feels just right.
Having the chance to watch a setter like Dino work was a reminder of how much thought and effort goes into every hold we pull on. Next time you step into a gym, take a moment to appreciate the art behind the routes—because every problem is a story waiting to be told.
FAQs
How do I become a route setter?
Start by climbing regularly and learning from experienced setters. Consider an apprenticeship and pursue certification, such as the USAC Routesetting Course.
How much do route setters get paid?
In the U.S., pay ranges from $15 to $25 per hour for part-time setters to $30,000 to $50,000 per year for full-time roles, depending on experience and location.
What tools do route setters use?
Common tools include impact drivers, wrenches, brushes, and A-frame ladders. High-quality bolts and holds are also essential.
How often do gyms change their routes?
Most gyms reset routes every 4-6 weeks to keep things fresh and challenging for regular climbers.5. What skills do you need to be a successful routesetter?
What skills do you need to be a successful routesetter?
A mix of creativity, climbing ability, problem-solving, and the ability to take constructive feedback is crucial.
