Choosing the perfect climbing shoes is about more than just finding the right size—it’s about getting the ideal fit for your foot shape and climbing style. Whether you’re looking for comfort on long trad routes or precision on steep boulder problems, understanding your foot type and climbing preferences will help you select the best shoe.
Here’s your comprehensive guide to finding the right climbing shoe for every type of climber.
Match Shoes to Your Climbing Style
Each climbing style benefits from specific shoe features, from aggressive downturns for steep bouldering to flat, supportive soles for long multi-pitch routes. Here’s a quick breakdown:
- Bouldering: Look for aggressive shoes with a downturned profile for enhanced power on overhangs and smaller holds.
- Sport Climbing: Moderately downturned shoes offer a balance of comfort and performance.
- Trad and Multi-Pitch Climbing: Choose neutral or slightly downturned shoes with extra padding for all-day wear.
- Indoor Climbing: A versatile shoe with medium stiffness and sticky rubber is ideal for the variety of holds and textures found in gyms.
Choosing a shoe based on your primary climbing style helps you focus on the features that will give you the best performance and comfort.
Shoe Shape: Neutral, Moderate, or Aggressive?
Climbing shoes come in three main shapes, each designed for a different level of performance and comfort:
- Neutral Shoes: With a flat sole, these shoes offer comfort for long climbs and are best for beginners and trad climbers.
- Moderate Shoes: Slightly downturned for added precision, moderate shoes are great for sport climbing and technical routes.
- Aggressive Shoes: With a sharp downturn, these shoes are built for maximum control and power on difficult, steep climbs.
Foot Shape: Greek, Egyptian, and Roman
Your foot shape significantly affects how climbing shoes fit, especially in the toe box. Here’s how to choose shoes based on Greek, Egyptian, or Roman foot types.
Greek Foot (Second Toe Longer Than the First)
If your second toe is longer than your big toe, you have what’s known as a “Greek” foot. Greek-footed climbers often need a shoe that doesn’t taper too tightly around the big toe.
- Best Shape: Shoes with a more rounded or symmetrical toe box to accommodate the longer second toe.
- Recommended Styles: Neutral or moderate shoes with a roomier toe box, like the La Sportiva Mythos or Five Ten Anasazi.
- Fit Tip: Avoid shoes with a sharply pointed toe box, which can pressure your second toe.
Egyptian Foot (Big Toe Longest, Toes Descend in Length)
Egyptian feet have a long big toe and shorter toes in descending order, making pointed shoes a good fit.
- Best Shape: Tapered toe box, which aligns with the big toe and provides a secure fit for precision.
- Recommended Styles: Aggressive shoes with a pointed toe, like the La Sportiva Solution or Scarpa Drago, ideal for precise, technical moves.
- Fit Tip: Egyptian-footed climbers often benefit from going down half a size for a snug, supportive fit.
Roman Foot (First Three Toes of Equal Length)
Roman feet, where the first three toes are nearly the same length, often require a wider toe box for comfort.
- Best Shape: Square or rounded toe box, offering a bit more space for toes.
- Recommended Styles: Neutral or moderate shoes, like the Evolv Defy or Scarpa Vapor V, which provide a square fit for comfort over long climbs.
- Fit Tip: Avoid narrow, pointed shoes that can cause discomfort and cramping during extended wear.
Choose Your Closure System
Climbing shoes typically come with lace-up, Velcro, or slip-on closures. Each has its pros and cons:
- Lace-Up Shoes: Maximum adjustability, perfect for climbers needing a custom fit.
- Velcro Shoes: Easy on-and-off, popular with gym climbers and boulderers.
- Slip-On Shoes: Flexible and minimalist, Easy on-and-off, Ideal for developing footwork and sensitivity.
Consider Shoe Materials and Stretch
The materials used in climbing shoes affect how they stretch, fit, and perform:
- Leather Shoes: Stretch over time, which can adapt well to Greek and Roman feet.
- Synthetic Shoes: Tend to retain their shape, ideal for Egyptian feet.
- Lined vs. Unlined: Unlined leather stretches more than lined, so size down slightly if you’re opting for unlined.
Rubber Type and Thickness
The type and thickness of rubber affect grip and durability:
- Soft Rubber: High grip, ideal for bouldering and overhanging routes.
- Hard Rubber: More durable, best for edging on small holds during longer trad or multi-pitch climbs.
- Thickness: 3-4 mm offers better sensitivity; 4-5 mm is more durable.
Try Different Brands and Models
Brands often design shoes with specific foot shapes in mind. For instance, La Sportiva and Scarpa cater to narrower feet, while Evolv and Five Ten are often wider. Trying on different brands can help you find a model tailored to your unique foot shape.
Final Fit Tips
- Fit for Comfort, Not Pain: Shoes should feel snug without causing pain.
- Check Toe Box Shape: Rounded or symmetrical toe boxes work well for Greek feet, tapered toes suit Egyptian feet, and squared toes suit Roman feet.
- Allow for Break-In Time: Leather stretches over time, while synthetic shoes hold their shape.
FAQs
Should climbing shoes fit tightly?
Yes, climbing shoes should be snug to provide control and prevent slipping but shouldn’t be painful.
What is the best shoe type for beginners?
Neutral shoes are ideal for beginners as they offer a balance of comfort and support for learning technique on varied routes.
How do I know if my shoe will stretch?
Leather shoes will stretch around half a size, while synthetic shoes retain their shape. Consider sizing down slightly for leather shoes if they’re unlined.
What closure system is best for different foot shapes?
Lace-ups are ideal for Roman feet needing adjustment; Velcro suits Egyptian feet for a tapered fit, while slip-ons suit Greek feet for even pressure distribution.
What’s the difference between soft and hard rubber?
Soft rubber provides excellent grip but wears quickly, making it ideal for technical routes. Hard rubber is more durable, ideal for trad and multi-pitch climbs.
