Types of Belay Devices: Choosing the Best Belay Device

When I first started climbing, I didn’t put much thought into belay devices—I just used whatever was available at the gym or borrowed from a friend. But as I progressed, I realized that the right belay device could make a massive difference in control, safety, and overall climbing efficiency. Whether I was sport climbing at my local crag or venturing into multi-pitch routes, I quickly learned that different types of belay devices offer unique advantages depending on the climbing style.

From tube-style devices to assisted-braking models, each belay device serves a purpose. Choosing the best belay device isn’t just about preference—it’s about safety, durability, and functionality. In this guide, I’ll break down the most common types of belay devices, highlight my personal favorites, and provide insights from other climbers to help you make the best choice for your needs.

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Table of Contents

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Types of Belay Devices

Tube-Style Belay Devices

Best For: Traditional belaying, rappelling, multi-pitch climbing

Tube-style belay devices, like the Black Diamond ATC Guide, are among the most versatile options. These devices rely entirely on the belayer to control the rope, making them ideal for experienced climbers who prefer a lightweight and simple design.

Pros:
– Lightweight and easy to use
– Works well for rappelling and multi-pitch climbing
– Compatible with a wide range of rope diameters

Cons:
– Requires constant attention and proper braking technique
– No assisted-braking feature

When I first started lead climbing, I used a basic ATC device. It was reliable, but after catching a few big falls, I quickly realized how much effort it took to maintain grip on the rope—especially on long belay sessions.

Assisted-Braking Belay Devices

Best For: Sport climbing, top-roping, single-pitch climbing

Assisted-braking devices, such as the Petzl GriGri, provide extra stopping power in case of a fall. These devices use a mechanical cam to pinch the rope when tension is applied, reducing the physical effort needed to hold a climber.

Pros:
– Enhanced safety for catching falls
– Reduces hand fatigue during long belay sessions
– Ideal for gym and sport climbing

Cons:
– More expensive than traditional tube devices
– Requires learning the proper feeding technique

The first time I used a GriGri, I was amazed at how much easier it was to catch falls and hold my climbing partner for extended periods. It was a game-changer, especially on redpoint burns, where my partner would hang for several minutes while working a crux sequence.

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Auto-Locking Belay Devices

Best For: Indoor climbing, beginners, solo belaying

Auto-locking devices, like the Climbing Technology Click Up, automatically lock the rope in place without manual intervention. These are great for gym climbers or those who want additional security while belaying.

Pros:
– Provides a high level of safety
– Easy to use for beginners
– Smooth rope handling for controlled lowering

Cons:
– Heavier than other types of belay devices
– Not ideal for all rope diameters

I once introduced a friend to climbing using an auto-locking device, and it made them feel much more comfortable catching falls. While I personally prefer assisted-braking devices for outdoor climbing, I see the appeal of auto-locking belay devices for new climbers or gym settings.

Figure 8 Belay Devices

Best For: Rappelling, caving, search and rescue

Though not commonly used for belaying anymore, figure 8 devices are excellent for rappelling and specialized climbing disciplines like canyoneering.

Pros:
– Excellent for rappelling
– Reduces rope wear
– Smooth rope handling

Cons:
– Not ideal for lead climbing
– No braking assistance

I’ve only used a figure 8 device a handful of times, mainly during rappelling courses. While it’s fun to use, I wouldn’t recommend it for everyday belaying—it’s outdated for most climbing applications.

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Best Belay Devices: My Top Picks

Petzl GriGri – Best Assisted-Braking Device

The Petzl GriGri is the gold standard for sport climbing, offering excellent control and added safety with its assisted-braking mechanism.

Why I Love It: The smooth lowering and easy catch make long belay sessions effortless.

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Black Diamond ATC Guide – Best for Multi-Pitch Climbing

A lightweight and versatile belay device, ideal for trad climbers and guides.

Why I Love It: The dual friction modes let me adjust braking power depending on the climb.

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Edelrid Mega Jul – Best Hybrid Belay Device

This belay device combines the best of both tube and assisted-braking systems, offering added safety in a lightweight package.

Why I Love It: I can use it for trad, sport, and alpine climbing without worrying about weight.

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Mammut Smart 2.0 – Best for Beginners

A simple and affordable assisted-braking device, perfect for new climbers.

Why I Love It: Intuitive and safe, making it great for introducing friends to climbing.

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Tips for Using a Belay Device Safely

• Practice Proper Technique – Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions and make sure you know how to use all the different types of belay devices.
• Match Your Rope – Ensure the rope diameter is within the device’s specifications.
• Inspect Regularly – Check for wear, cracks, or sharp edges that could damage the rope.
• Use Gloves for Rappelling – Protect your hands when using high-friction devices.
• Test Features First – Get familiar with the braking mechanism and lowering process before taking it outdoors.

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FAQs