Just outside Las Vegas, Nevada, lies Red Rock Canyon, a sandstone paradise offering some of the best climbing in the U.S. With over 2,000 climbing routes spanning all skill levels, Red Rock attracts climbers from around the world. Known for its unique Aztec sandstone, Red Rock offers climbs that are both challenging and rewarding, with a wide variety of routes suitable for beginners and seasoned climbers alike. This guide covers the best routes, essential tips, and hidden spots that make Red Rock a climber’s dream destination.
The Magic of Red Rock’s Sandstone
Red Rock’s Aztec sandstone provides climbers with an unmatched grip and smoothness, thanks to its unique texture. The rock is known for its durability and natural friction, enhanced by black patina plates that make for ideal handholds and foot placements. While the texture of the sandstone is perfect for climbing, it’s essential to avoid climbing after rain. Wet sandstone can crumble under pressure, damaging both the rock and posing risks to climbers.
Beginner-Friendly Routes in Red Rock
For those new to climbing, Red Rock Canyon offers several excellent options to ease into multi-pitch and traditional routes. Here are a few must-try routes for beginner climbers:
1. Birdland (5.7)
Located in the moderate section of Red Rock, Birdland is a five-pitch route perfect for beginners eager to experience multi-pitch climbing. With consistent, well-protected sections and scenic views, this climb is ideal for novices looking to build confidence on longer routes.
- Pitch Count: 5
- Location: Willow Springs
- Features: Steady climbing with great protection and beautiful views
2. Olive Oil (5.7)
Olive Oil is a straightforward yet rewarding route that introduces climbers to slab and face climbing on beautifully exposed sandstone. This climb is ideal for those looking to get a taste of traditional climbing without overly technical sections.
- Pitch Count: 4
- Location: Solar Slab Area
- Features: Mix of slab and face climbing with steady protection
3. The Great Red Book (5.8)
A standout for its accessibility, The Great Red Book offers two pitches of exposed face climbing in the iconic Calico Hills area. This route is a perfect introduction to multi-pitch climbing, providing an unforgettable experience with stunning red sandstone views.
- Pitch Count: 2
- Location: Calico Hills
- Features: Beautiful face climbing on exposed red slabs
These routes offer beginners a great mix of technique-building and scenic beauty, making them the perfect start to climbing at Red Rock.
Top Routes for Experienced Climbers
Experienced climbers flock to Red Rock for its challenging routes, intricate crack systems, and beautiful exposure. Here are some classic options for those seeking a technical test:
1. Original Route on Rainbow Wall (5.12)
This demanding climb is a must for skilled climbers, with sustained difficulty across its many pitches. The Original Route on Rainbow Wall is known for its exposure and technical demands, challenging climbers with delicate moves and strength-testing holds.
- Pitch Count: 11
- Location: Rainbow Wall
- Features: Sustained difficulty, high exposure, and incredible views
2. Triassic Sands (5.10)
Triassic Sands is celebrated for its pristine crack climbing. Located in Black Velvet Canyon, this climb provides a mix of hand and fist jams in perfectly smooth cracks. Linking it with Wholesome Fullback (5.10b) adds to the challenge, creating a full day of exceptional climbing.
- Pitch Count: 3
- Location: Black Velvet Canyon
- Features: Varied cracks, technical moves, excellent for crack climbing enthusiasts
3. Myster Z to Armatron (5.7 – 5.9)
This combination route offers a full-day adventure that traverses varied terrain, from cracks to face climbing. Armatron’s beautiful black varnished surface and thrilling exposure make it a favorite among climbers looking to push their comfort zones.
- Pitch Count: 6+ (combined)
- Location: Juniper Canyon
- Features: Exposed, varied climbing with beautiful black varnish holds
These challenging routes are perfect for climbers looking to advance their skills and experience Red Rock’s diverse rock formations and breathtaking views.
Hidden Gems and Lesser-Known Climbing Spots
Red Rock is vast, and it’s easy to find less crowded areas that still offer excellent climbing. Here are a few hidden gems:
1. Secret Santa (5.9)
Located in an area less frequented by climbers, Secret Santa provides a mix of crack and face climbing with few crowds. This hidden spot allows climbers to enjoy Red Rock’s sandstone in a quieter setting.
2. Little Black Book (5.8)
A small but satisfying multi-pitch climb, Little Black Book offers well-protected face climbing with stunning views of the surrounding canyon. It’s a fantastic spot for those looking to escape the busier areas.
3. Jazz Cat (5.10a)
Found in the First Creek area, Jazz Cat is a moderate multi-pitch route that combines crack and slab climbing. This route is not as popular as other areas, making it an excellent choice for a quieter day of climbing.
These lesser-known spots offer climbers the same stunning Red Rock experience without the larger crowds, perfect for those seeking solitude and unique challenges.
Guide to Red Rock Bouldering Problems
Red Rock also offers exceptional bouldering areas, with problems that cater to all levels of climbers. Here are a few standout bouldering spots:
1. Kraft Boulders
Located near the entrance of Red Rock, Kraft Boulders is the most popular bouldering area. It features hundreds of problems ranging from V0 to V12, making it a prime destination for boulderers. Notable problems include Potato Chips (V0) and The Pearl (V5), both known for their unique holds and engaging movements.
2. Gateway Canyon
This spot is perfect for those looking to test their skills on dynamic, powerful problems. Gateway Canyon offers boulders from V2 to V10, with some classic sandstone problems that require strong core control and precise footwork.
3. Black Velvet Boulders
For those seeking solitude, Black Velvet Canyon provides a quieter bouldering experience. The problems here range from beginner-friendly V0s to challenging V8s and feature varied sandstone holds that challenge grip and balance.
These bouldering spots make Red Rock a versatile destination, offering both roped routes and bouldering problems to keep climbers of all levels engaged.
Planning Your Visit to Red Rock Canyon
Best Climbing Seasons
The ideal time for climbing in Red Rock Canyon is during the spring and fall, with mild temperatures and clear skies. Summer can be too hot, while winter brings cold weather and occasional rain, which can make the sandstone brittle.
Permits and Fees
An entry fee is required to access Red Rock Canyon, and climbers need permits for any late exits or overnight climbs. Always check current regulations before planning your visit to ensure a smooth experience.
Safety Tips
- Avoid Climbing on Wet Rock: Wet sandstone is fragile and can crumble, so wait at least 24–48 hours after rain before climbing.
- Bring Extra Water: The desert heat, even in cooler seasons, can lead to dehydration.
- Respect Wildlife and Regulations: Red Rock is a protected area with unique flora and fauna. Stay on trails and follow Leave No Trace principles.
By following these guidelines, you can enjoy Red Rock’s incredible climbing opportunities while preserving the environment for future climbers.
FAQs
1. What are the best times of year to climb in Red Rock?
Spring and fall are ideal, with mild temperatures and low precipitation. Summer can be too hot, while winter can bring cold and wet conditions, though some days are still climbable.
2. Are there beginner-friendly routes in Red Rock?
Yes! Red Rock has plenty of beginner-friendly routes, including Birdland (5.7), Olive Oil (5.7), and The Great Red Book (5.8). These routes offer accessible, enjoyable climbs in a stunning setting.
3. How can I find hidden or lesser-known climbing spots in Red Rock?
Areas like Secret Santa (5.9), Little Black Book (5.8), and Jazz Cat (5.10a) are lesser-known spots where you’re likely to encounter fewer climbers. These areas provide excellent climbs without the crowds.
4. Is bouldering available in Red Rock Canyon?
Yes, Red Rock has top-notch bouldering areas, including Kraft Boulders and Gateway Canyon. These spots offer a range of problems from beginner-friendly V0s to advanced V12s.
5. How should I prepare for climbing in Red Rock Canyon?
Pack plenty of water, sunscreen, and layers for variable weather. Check the forecast to avoid wet conditions, as climbing on wet sandstone is dangerous. An entry fee and permits for certain climbs are required.
