Nicolai Užnik flashes American Gangster 8B+/V14

Austrian climber Nicolai Užnik flashed American Gangster V14 (8B+) in Zillertal, Austria on November 8th. First established in 2009 by Daniel Woods, this five-star line has also been climbed by well-known boulderers such as Paul Robinson, Jimmy Webb, and Pietro Vidi. The problem features a start and finish on jugs, connecting two powerful V12 sequences into a heady top-out. While some footage of the boulder had circulated before, the climbing collective Mellow recently published the full video of Užnik’s send.

“I just barely missed flashing another boulder at this grade a while back, so this time around I got my revenge!” Užnik wrote on Instagram. “I’m really happy I pulled it off—especially on such a standout line, originally put up by [Daniel Woods]. My beta for the top section felt like a gamble, but I stuck with it and managed to keep my head in the game after nearly messing up the opening moves.”

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American Gangster is Užnik’s first V14 flash. Earlier in 2023, he also made headlines by completing the first post-break ascent of Emotional Landscapes in Maltatal, Austria, giving it a personal grade of V16. His ticklist includes multiple V15s—among them three recent sends in Ticino: Forgotten Gem, From Dirt Grows the Flowers, and Unison. Užnik is also an experienced competitor on the IFSC World Cup circuit and has advanced to the finals in several events over the past few seasons.