Location: Eldorado Canyon, Colorado, United States
First Ascent: Shawn Raboutou (2022)
Moves: 17
Table of Contents
The Moves
Megatron, a 17-move testpiece, sits atop a talus field in Eldorado Canyon, surrounded by lush woods. This line begins with a low start to Tron (V14), adding seven V15-level moves that flow directly into the established problem. The powerful sequence offers no opportunity for rest, combining extreme compression moves on awkwardly oriented positive holds.
The crux involves a challenging right-hand throw into the start hold of Tron. Drew Ruana described this as one of the hardest moves he’s ever encountered, a significant statement from a climber who has completed over 100 V14+ problems. Beyond the crux, the difficulty remains unrelenting, requiring exceptional strength, precision, and endurance to stick the moves and complete the problem.
Local climber and developer Chad Greedy initially envisioned the Megatron line over a decade ago, but it wasn’t until Shawn Raboutou began projecting the climb that this futuristic vision became a reality.
Conquering Megatron
First Ascent
Shawn Raboutou sent Megatron in 2022, following an intense period of projecting that began in the fall of 2021. Raboutou’s efforts were marked by both physical and mental challenges. He described the crux move as a “make or break” moment, with some sessions yielding moderate success and others feeling nearly impossible.
Raboutou achieved his ascent in 80°F conditions, a remarkable feat considering how important cold temperatures are for friction on challenging sandstone problems. Reflecting on his experience, Raboutou remarked, “Ultimately when I did it I think I became a better climber; maybe not just physically, but mentally, and I think that’s half the game of climbing [is] pushing the mental barriers of what you think is possible.” His ascent cemented Megatron as one of the hardest boulders in the world and added to his extraordinary 2022, a year that also included the first ascents of Alphane (V17) and The Story of Three Worlds (V16).
Other Attempts
Since Raboutou’s groundbreaking ascent, Megatron remains unrepeated. Drew Ruana has dedicated over 70 days to the climb, citing the unrelenting difficulty of the moves. Daniel Woods, who completed the first ascent of Tron, has also made numerous attempts but has yet to link the entire sequence. The climbing world eagerly anticipates who will secure the second ascent of this formidable problem.
FAQs
Why is Megatron so challenging?
The problem combines seven V15 moves with Tron (V14), creating a relentless 17-move sequence. The crux involves a powerful right-hand throw, and the difficulty remains unrelenting until the top.
Who has climbed Megatron?
Shawn Raboutou completed the first ascent in 2022. As of now, no climbers have repeated the problem.
Where is Megatron located?
Megatron is located in Eldorado Canyon, Colorado, an area traditionally known for its multi-pitch trad routes but now home to one of the hardest boulders in the world.
