Close-up of a climber's hand firmly gripping a rugged rock, illustrating precise hand positioning during a climb.

Mastering Slopers: A Climber’s Guide to Better Control

Slopers are unique climbing holds that challenge even the most experienced climbers. These smooth, rounded holds require not just strength, but also precision, patience, and technique. Here are the most effective tips to help you in mastering slopers.


1. Maximize Contact Area

When it comes to slopers, friction is your best friend. Maximizing the contact area between your hand and the hold can create the necessary friction to stay on:

  • Use your whole hand: Spread your fingers wide and press your entire palm and fingertips onto the surface.
  • Experiment with different angles: Try turning your hand slightly in different directions until you find the most stable position.
  • Maintain steady pressure: Avoid quick adjustments, which can cause slipping. Keep a consistent press to “stick” to the hold.

2. Engage Body Tension

Effective body tension is the secret weapon for holding slopers. Good core engagement keeps your body connected to the wall and reduces strain on your hands:

  • Engage your core and legs: Keeping your core tight and legs activated will stabilize your whole body.
  • Drive from your feet: Push hard with your feet to maintain body tension and take some load off your hands.
  • Keep hips close to the wall: Pull your hips toward the wall to keep your weight over your feet, reducing the strain on your grip.
A climber’s chalked hand gripping a green sloper hold on an indoor climbing wall, with chalk dust dispersing mid-air.
A climber’s hand firmly grips a green sloper hold, chalk dust floating in the air, highlighting the effort and precision of climbing.

3. Use Open-Hand Grip

Slopers are best held with an open-hand grip, which utilizes more surface area:

  • Avoid crimping: Attempting to crimp on a sloper can lead to strain or even injury. Relax your fingers and focus on spreading them.
  • Trust the friction: Even if it feels unnatural, an open-hand grip often provides more stability on rounded holds.

4. Stay Balanced with Footwork

Solid footwork is essential to keep your center of gravity steady on slopers:

  • Place feet precisely: Find the best footholds to create a strong base, and avoid readjusting as it can disrupt your balance.
  • Use micro-adjustments: Subtle foot pivots can help fine-tune your balance without putting strain on your hands.
  • Lean into your feet: By shifting your weight toward your feet, you can rely less on your hands and stay steady on the sloper.

5. Focus on Smooth, Controlled Movements

Avoid sudden, jerky movements when tackling slopers. Smooth, controlled motions help maintain your balance and contact with the hold:

  • Plan your next move: Try to visualize each step before you start, so you can move confidently and avoid sudden shifts.
  • Breathe and stay relaxed: Anxiety and rushed movements can lead to slipping. Take a moment to breathe deeply and focus on staying calm.
A man practicing hangboard training indoors, hanging from a fingerboard in a bright, spacious living area with natural light.
A climber practices on a hangboard in a bright indoor space.

6. Strengthen Your Fingers and Forearms

While slopers require more than brute strength, having well-conditioned hands and forearms can make a difference:

  • Hangboard practice: Use hangboards with sloper grips to improve finger strength and grip endurance.
  • Practice open-hand exercises: Strengthening open-hand grips on other types of holds can prepare your muscles for slopers.

In Summary

Mastering slopers is a skill that blends technique, strength, and mental focus. Remember that maximizing contact area, engaging body tension, using an open-hand grip, practicing precise footwork, and moving smoothly are all essential for climbing slopers effectively. With practice, you’ll develop the control and confidence to tackle slopers of all shapes and sizes.

FAQs

1. Why are slopers so difficult to grip?
Slopers lack edges or crevices, making them challenging because they rely on friction and surface contact rather than finger strength alone. They require climbers to use full-hand contact, body tension, and balanced footwork to stay on.

2. How can I build strength specifically for slopers?
To build strength for slopers, practice open-handed grips on hangboards and sloper holds at the gym. Incorporate exercises like wrist curls, forearm squeezes, and core work to improve overall stability and grip endurance.

3. Should I use chalk on slopers?
Yes, chalk can help with grip on slopers by absorbing sweat and increasing friction. However, avoid over-chalking, as too much can reduce friction on some surfaces. Try chalking lightly and wiping your hands occasionally for the best grip.

4. What’s the best body position for climbing on slopers?
The best body position is usually with your hips close to the wall and your weight over your feet. Keep a low center of gravity, engage your core, and avoid leaning back, as this will reduce friction and make it harder to stay on the hold.

5. How can I prevent slipping on slopers?
To avoid slipping, focus on maximizing hand contact, maintaining steady body tension, and moving smoothly without sudden shifts. Good footwork, precise hand placements, and staying calm can help you keep a secure grip on slopers.