When it comes to improving your climbing skills, understanding different types of climbing holds and mastering the techniques to grip them can make a huge difference. Each hold demands its own approach, from crimps that require finger strength to slopers that test your balance. This guide covers the most common climbing holds, offering descriptions and tips to help you conquer various types and boost your climbing performance.
Why Climbing Hold Techniques Matter
Climbing isn’t only about strength; it’s about strategically using your energy. To avoid exhausting your forearms, it’s essential to grip each hold with only as much force as needed. Over-gripping leads to what climbers call getting “pumped,” where blood flow restriction causes rapid fatigue. Another important technique is to pull on holds at a perpendicular angle for maximum grip, aligning your body weight to avoid slipping. By using efficient grip strength and proper pulling technique, you can conserve energy and tackle more challenging routes with confidence.
Crimp Holds
Description: Crimps are small edges that fit only your fingertips and are common in indoor and outdoor routes. They come in two main styles:
- Full Crimp (Closed Crimp): Your fingers are bent tightly, with the thumb pressing over the index finger, providing maximum hold but placing strain on the tendons.
- Open Crimp (Half Crimp): Your fingers rest on the hold without the sharp bend, reducing stress on tendons but offering slightly less grip power.
Technique: When using crimps, position your body close to the wall, allowing you to transfer more weight to your feet and ease pressure on your fingers. Use the full crimp only when absolutely necessary, as it can be tough on the joints and tendons over time.
Jug Holds
Description: Jugs are large, easy-to-grab holds that let you wrap your entire hand around them. These are some of the most beginner-friendly holds, offering a secure grip and often appearing on warm-up routes or as rest points on tougher climbs.
Technique: Wrap your fingers and thumb fully around the hold, using your arms to pull or rest. To conserve energy, use jugs as a spot to shake out your arms and relax before tackling the next section.
Pinch Holds
Description: Pinches are shaped for gripping between your fingers and thumb, similar to pinching a large object. They come in various widths and require a combination of finger and thumb strength.
Technique: Squeeze the hold firmly using both fingers and thumb, engaging your entire hand. Keep your forearm muscles relaxed to avoid over-gripping, and shift your weight onto your feet to stay balanced.
Sloper Holds
Description: Slopers are rounded, featureless holds that require you to rely on friction rather than a firm grip. With no defined edge, slopers demand precise body positioning and balance.
Technique: Keep your hand flat and open on the sloper, pressing your palm and fingers into the surface to maximize contact. Focus on your body positioning, keeping your center of gravity low and your body weight aligned with the direction of the hold for stability.
Pocket Holds
Description: Pockets are holds with small openings, allowing you to place only one to three fingers inside. The size and depth vary, with some pockets offering just enough space for a fingertip.
Technique: Place your strongest fingers (often the middle and ring fingers) into the pocket, and avoid using your pinky as it’s weaker. Pockets can strain your tendons, so approach them cautiously, especially on small or deep pockets.
Volume Holds
Description: Volumes (black holds in the picture) are large, three-dimensional shapes bolted to the wall that often serve as base structures for other holds. They can act as both hand and foot holds, and they’re particularly common in bouldering gyms.
Technique: Volumes encourage creative movement. Use any available edge or surface to balance or position yourself. Volumes often require you to distribute your weight evenly and rely on friction and careful balance.
Crack Holds
Description: Cracks simulate natural splits in rock where you can wedge parts of your body to gain leverage. Learning to use cracks effectively is essential for crack climbing, a technique common in traditional climbing.
Technique: For finger cracks, slide your fingers in and twist or expand them to create tension against the rock. For larger cracks, you might use your hands or even foot jams, twisting your feet or hands to wedge them securely.
Undercling Holds
Description: Underclings (grey hold in picture) are holds you grip from below, pulling upward rather than downward. Often found under volumes or other holds, they require a different approach than typical holds.
Technique: Pull up on the undercling while positioning your feet high on the wall to create counter-pressure. Underclings often demand strong biceps and excellent footwork to maintain stability and control.
Key Tips for Climbing Hold Mastery
- Grip Efficiency: Avoid over-gripping, as this quickly tires out your forearms. Grip just enough to stay on the hold, saving energy for tougher sections.
- Weight Distribution: Shift as much weight onto your feet as possible. Use your legs for support, letting your arms do less work.
- Body Positioning: On holds like slopers and pinches, positioning your body close to the wall and keeping your center of gravity low will improve stability.
- Footwork Matters: Foot placement is crucial on slabs and smaller holds. Practice precise foot placements and trust your shoes to hold.
- Build Finger Strength Gradually: Holds like crimps and pockets can put significant strain on your tendons, so use them cautiously and avoid repetitive strain.
FAQs
1. What are the most beginner-friendly climbing holds?
Jugs are the most beginner-friendly holds, as they provide a secure and comfortable grip that doesn’t require much finger strength.
2. Why is over-gripping a common issue, and how can I fix it?
Over-gripping leads to forearm fatigue and restricts blood flow, causing you to tire quickly. To fix it, practice gripping holds just enough to stay on, and focus on using your feet to take weight off your hands.
3. How can I improve my grip on slopers?
For slopers, keep your hand open and flat against the hold, maximizing surface contact. Focus on your body positioning to keep your weight aligned with the direction of the pull, which helps improve grip.
4. What are pockets, and how should I use them safely?
Pockets are holds with small openings, usually big enough for one to three fingers. Use your strongest fingers (middle and ring) to grip them, and avoid putting too much strain on these holds to prevent injury.
5. How should I handle crimps without straining my fingers?
Use the open grip or half crimp position whenever possible. The full crimp position provides more strength but places a lot of stress on tendons, so it’s best to use it sparingly, especially on longer climbs.
6. Are crack holds common in indoor gyms?
Some gyms have crack simulators, but they’re more common outdoors. Crack climbing requires specific techniques like hand and foot jams, which can be challenging but add variety to your climbing skills.
7. Can I rely on volumes as handholds?
Yes, volumes can serve as handholds, footholds, or balance points. They encourage creative movement and often require you to balance rather than grip tightly.
Mastering climbing holds involves understanding how each type works, using efficient techniques, and focusing on body positioning. By learning the strengths and challenges of different holds, you can climb more efficiently and confidently, ultimately unlocking new climbing skills and boosting your performance.
