If you’re looking to build finger strength, explosive power, and dynamic movement for climbing, a campus board training plan is a must-have in your routine. Campus boards are a staple in climbing gyms and offer targeted training for climbers at all levels.
Campus board training has been a game-changer in my climbing progression, helping me build power and explosive contact strength. In this guide, I’ll cover everything from campus board workouts to effective routines, along with key training tips to help you get the most out of every session.
Table of Contents
What is Campus Board Training?
Campus board training involves performing specific exercises on a campus board—a wooden or resin wall with evenly spaced rungs. It’s designed to improve:
- Finger Strength: Develop grip strength crucial for challenging holds.
- Power: Build explosive upper-body movements needed for dynamic climbs.
- Contact Strength: Enhance your ability to grip and release holds quickly.
While incredibly effective, campus board training requires proper technique and a well-structured plan to avoid injury.
Who Should Use a Campus Board?
In my experience, campus board training is best suited for intermediate to advanced climbers looking to develop explosive power and finger strength. If you’re still building foundational technique and overall grip strength, it’s better to focus on regular climbing and hangboard progressions first. Once you’re ready, the campus board can be an incredible tool for boosting dynamic movement and contact strength.
Creating a Campus Board Training Plan
An effective campus board training plan includes warm-ups, targeted exercises, and cooldowns.
Here’s how I structure my session:
Warm-Up (10–15 minutes)
- Dynamic Stretches: Focus on shoulders, arms, and fingers.
- Easy Climbing: Spend 5–10 minutes on moderate routes to activate muscles.
- Finger Prep: I’ve found that using grip trainers or hang boards for a light warm-up is one of the best ways to prepare finger tendons before intense climbing or campus board sessions.
Core Campus Board Workouts (20–30 minutes)
Beginner Campus Board Routines
- Static Ladders:
Climb up the board one rung at a time, using both hands on each rung for control.- Reps: 3–5 ascents
- Rest: 2–3 minutes between sets
- Offset Pull-Ups:
Perform pull-ups with one hand higher than the other, switching sides each rep.- Reps: 5–8 per side
- Rest: 2 minutes
Intermediate Campus Board Routines
- Dynamic Ladders:
Use one hand per rung and climb upward explosively.- Reps: 3 ascents
- Rest: 3 minutes
- Touch-and-Go:
Start on the bottom rung, jump to a higher rung, touch it, and return to the starting position.- Reps: 6–8 touches
- Rest: 2 minutes
Advanced Campus Board Workouts
- Double-Dyno Ladders:
Jump with both hands to the next rung and catch yourself midair.- Reps: 3–4 ascents
- Rest: 4 minutes
- Max Reach:
Start on a low rung and reach as high as possible with one hand while maintaining control.- Reps: 5 per side
- Rest: 3 minutes
Cooldown (10–15 minutes)
- Stretching: Focus on forearms, shoulders, and fingers to improve flexibility and reduce stiffness.
- Massage or Roll-Out: Use a foam roller or massage ball to relax muscles.
Campus Board Training Tips
To get the most out of your campus board workouts while minimizing the risk of injury, follow these tips:
- Focus on Form: Maintain proper technique, avoiding jerky or uncontrolled movements.
- Progress Gradually: Start with static exercises before incorporating dynamic moves.
- Limit Sessions: Train on the campus board no more than twice a week to allow recovery.
- Avoid Overtraining: Pay attention to signs of fatigue or finger strain, and take rest days when needed.
- Integrate Rest Periods: Use long rest periods (2–4 minutes) between sets to recover fully.
How to Track Progress
Keeping a log of your campus board routines can help monitor improvements in strength and technique.
Record details like:
- Rung heights reached.
- Reps and sets completed.
- Rest times between exercises.
- Overall difficulty level and perceived exertion.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
- Skipping Warm-Ups: Campus board training places immense stress on tendons and muscles. Proper preparation is essential.
- Poor Recovery: Insufficient rest between sets or sessions can lead to overuse injuries.
- Neglecting Technique: Uncontrolled movements increase the risk of injury and diminish workout effectiveness.
A well-structured campus board training plan can take your climbing performance to new heights by building finger strength, power, and dynamic movement. Whether you’re incorporating beginner static ladders or advanced double-dynos, consistency and proper technique are key to success.
Approach campus board workouts with caution, follow the right progression, and always prioritize recovery to make the most of your training. Happy climbing!
FAQs
Can beginners use a campus board?
Beginners should focus on foundational strength through climbing and basic hangboard training before transitioning to campus board workouts.
How often should I train on a campus board?
For most climbers, 1–2 sessions per week is ideal. This allows for recovery while providing consistent progress.
What’s the difference between a campus board and a hangboard?
A campus board is used for dynamic, power-based exercises, while a hangboard is focused on static strength and endurance for specific grip types.
How can I avoid injury while using a campus board?
Always warm up properly, maintain good form, and avoid overtraining. Listen to your body and stop if you feel pain or discomfort.
What should I combine with campus board training?
Complement your campus board routines with climbing sessions, strength training, and flexibility exercises for a well-rounded approach.
