If you’re new to bouldering, you may have noticed mysterious “V” numbers or letters next to problems in your gym. These symbols indicate the difficulty grade of the boulder problem, but what do they mean? The two most popular bouldering grading systems are the V-scale and the Fontainebleau (Font) scale. This bouldering grade guide will demystify both so you can better understand how bouldering grades work, track your progress, and set new goals.
V-Scale and Font Scale Comparison Chart
Here’s a side-by-side comparison of the Fontainebleau and V-scale grades to help you see how they align. Note that these conversions are approximate, as the feel of a grade may differ between styles and regions.
| Fontainebleau | V-Scale |
|---|---|
| 3 | VB |
| 4 | V0 |
| 4+ | V0+ |
| 5 | V1 |
| 5+ | V2 |
| 6A | V3 |
| 6A+ | V3/4 |
| 6B | V4 |
| 6B+ | V4/5 |
| 6C | V5 |
| 6C+ | V5/6 |
| 7A | V6 |
| 7A+ | V7 |
| 7B | V8 |
| 7B+ | V8/9 |
| 7C | V9 |
| 7C+ | V10 |
| 8A | V11 |
| 8A+ | V12 |
| 8B | V13 |
| 8B+ | V14 |
| 8C | V15 |
| 8C+ | V16 |
| 9A | V17 |
Understanding the V-Scale
The V-scale, developed in the 1980s by climber John “Vermin” Sherman, is a widely used grading system in North America. The scale begins at V0 (beginner level) and progresses upward (V1, V2, etc.), with each higher number indicating a more challenging problem. The V-scale is open-ended, with the hardest bouldering problems currently around V17. The scale doesn’t consider problem height or risk—just the technical difficulty.
The Fontainebleau (Font) Scale
The Font scale, originating in the Fontainebleau forest near Paris, is popular in Europe. Unlike the straightforward progression of the V-scale, the Font scale includes a mix of numbers and letters, creating nuanced gradations, such as 5, 5+, 6A, and 6A+. This scale often feels more detailed but follows the same principle: the higher the number, the harder the problem.
Key Factors that Influence Bouldering Grades
Several factors influence how a boulder problem’s grade is determined:
- Hold Type and Size: Smaller or more sloped holds tend to increase difficulty.
- Wall Angle: Steeper walls generally demand more strength and body tension.
- Distance Between Holds: Longer reaches or dynamic moves can make a problem feel harder.
- Problem Length: More moves require better endurance, adding difficulty.
- Movement Complexity: Complicated sequences or unusual techniques add to a grade.
Using Grades to Track Your Progress
While grades are useful for tracking improvement, they’re subjective and can vary between locations or even gyms. Aim to:
- Set Realistic Goals: Climb consistently at a certain grade before moving to the next.
- Climb for Technique, Not Just Grades: Each grade should also bring new skills.
- Focus on Progress, Not Perfection: Personal improvement matters more than comparison.
Whether using the V-scale or Font scale, grades are a guideline, not a rigid benchmark. Progressing in bouldering involves more than chasing numbers—it’s about developing skill, strength, and a passion for the climb. By understanding the differences between the V-scale and Font scale, you’ll gain confidence as you tackle new challenges on the wall.
FAQs
What does the “V” in the V-scale stand for?
The “V” in the V-scale refers to John “Vermin” Sherman, the climber who developed the system in the 1980s. The V-scale has become a standard for bouldering grades, particularly in North America.
How does the Fontainebleau (Font) scale work?
The Font scale, originating from the Fontainebleau region, uses a mix of numbers and letters. Starting at 3, the difficulty increases with numbers and letter grades like 6A, 6A+, etc. It is popular in Europe and often offers more nuanced grading.
Are the V-scale and Font scale equivalent?
While not directly equivalent, they can be roughly compared as shown in the chart. Variations exist, as different regions and gyms may apply grades differently based on the local style.
How do bouldering grades vary across gyms?
Grades may vary due to subjective factors like route setter style, hold types, and wall angles. As a result, a V4 in one gym might feel like a V3 or V5 in another. Use grades as a guideline and focus on consistency in your own progress.
Can I use grades to set goals in bouldering?
Yes! Grades are helpful for tracking progress. Start by mastering problems at one grade level before moving to the next. This allows you to build a solid foundation of technique and strength as you progress.
