Best Carabiners for Climbing: A Guide to the Top Choices

Carabiners have been indispensable in my climbing adventures, serving as vital connectors between ropes, harnesses, and belay devices. Selecting the right carabiner is essential for both performance and safety across various climbing disciplines, including sport climbing, trad climbing, and mountaineering. In this guide, I’ll share my personal experiences with top carabiners, focusing on those designed for belaying and overall safety, while highlighting key features to consider when assembling your climbing kit.

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Table of Contents

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What Are Climbing Carabiners?

Carabiners are metal loops with spring-loaded gates, designed to connect various components of your climbing system. They are made from lightweight but durable materials like aluminum or steel and come in different shapes and locking mechanisms to suit specific climbing needs.

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Types of Carabiners for Climbing

1. Locking Carabiners
   • Feature a locking gate for added security.
   • Used in critical connections like belay setups and anchors.
   • Subtypes: Screw-lock, twist-lock, and auto-lock.
2. Non-Locking Carabiners
   • Used in less critical areas, like quickdraws or racking gear.
   • Lighter and faster to use but less secure.
3. Carabiner Shapes
   • D-Shaped: Strongest and most versatile, ideal for general climbing use.
   • Oval: Balanced shape, good for racking gear and belay devices.
   • HMS (Pear-Shaped): Perfect for belaying and setting up munter hitches.

Best Carabiners for Climbing

Petzl Sm’D Twist-Lock

• Type: Locking, D-shaped.
• Features:
  • Lightweight aluminum design.
  • Twist-lock mechanism for quick and secure closure.
  • Keylock system prevents snagging on ropes or gear.

I find this carabiner perfect for belaying, setting up anchors, and general climbing use.

Black Diamond RockLock Screwgate

• Type: Locking, HMS (pear-shaped).
• Features:
  • Largest belay carabiner from Black Diamond.
  • Screwgate lock for secure closure.
  • Slightly curved spine for maximum gate clearance.

I prefer using this carabiner for belaying, rappelling, and setting up Munter hitches.

Edelrid HMS Bulletproof Triple FG

• Type: Locking, HMS with steel insert.
• Features:
  • Hybrid construction: aluminum body with a steel insert to prevent rope wear.
  • Triple-action locking gate for maximum safety.
  • Integrated wire gate keeps the carabiner oriented correctly.

I find this carabiner ideal for high-friction scenarios, frequent belaying, and top-rope setups.

DMM Phantom

• Type: Non-locking, D-shaped.
• Features:
  • Ultra-lightweight design for trad and alpine climbing.
  • Keylock nose reduces snagging.
  • High strength-to-weight ratio.

I prefer this carabiner for organizing gear and assembling quickdraws.

CAMP Photon Wire Gate

• Type: Non-locking, wire gate.
• Features:
  • Lightweight and easy to handle.
  • Wire gate reduces gate flutter and icing in cold conditions.
  • Generous gate clearance for clipping.
• I use this carabiner for quickdraws, alpine climbing, and organizing trad racks.

Mammut Wall Micro Lock

• Type: Locking, small D-shaped.
• Features:
  • Compact design for minimalist setups.
  • Screw-lock for reliable closure.
  • Keylock nose prevents snagging.

I rely on this carabiner for backup anchors and securing personal tethers.

What I Consider When Choosing Carabiners

1. Locking Mechanisms
   • Screw-lock: Manual but reliable for all-around use.
   • Twist-lock: Faster to operate, ideal for belay setups.
   • Auto-lock: Maximum security with no manual locking required.
2. Gate Clearance
   • A wider gate clearance makes clipping ropes or gear easier.
3. Material
   • Aluminum: Lightweight, perfect for general climbing.
   • Steel: More durable, ideal for high-wear scenarios like top-roping or industrial use.
4. Size and Weight
   • Larger carabiners are easier to handle, but compact designs reduce weight for alpine or multi-pitch climbing.
5. Strength Ratings
   • Measured in kilonewtons (kN), with standard ratings for major axis strength (20–30 kN) and minor axis strength (7–10 kN).

Safe Carabiners for Climbing

To ensure safety while climbing, always:

1. Inspect Your Carabiners: Check for cracks, wear, or deformities before each climb.
2. Choose the Right Type: Use locking carabiners for belaying and anchors.
3. Avoid Cross-Loading: Ensure the carabiner is loaded along its major axis.

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Carabiners for Belaying

For belaying, HMS (pear-shaped) carabiners are ideal due to their larger capacity and smooth rope handling. Options like the Black Diamond RockLock or Edelrid HMS Bulletproof ensure secure and efficient belay setups.

The best carabiners for climbing combine strength, durability, and ease of use. Whether you need carabiners for climbing safety, belaying, or racking gear, options like the Petzl Sm’D, Black Diamond RockLock, and Edelrid HMS Bulletproof offer top-tier performance. By choosing carabiners suited to your climbing style and inspecting them regularly, you can ensure a safe and enjoyable climbing experience.

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FAQs