Grade: V15/8C
Location: Cresciano, Switzerland
First Ascent: Dave Graham (January 5, 2005)
Moves: 21
Table of Contents
The Moves
The Story of Two Worlds (TSOTW) is a challenging 21-move boulder problem located on the Dreamtime boulder in Cresciano, Switzerland. It begins with a sit-start extension that connects seven crimpy moves of V13/V14 difficulty into Toni Lamprecht’s The Dagger (V14).
The route demands a high level of finger strength and precision, with intricate moves on tiny crimps requiring exceptional technique and body tension. Climbers often struggle with the seamless execution needed to link the bottom section into The Dagger without rest, making the problem a true test of endurance and mental focus.
Conquering The Story of Two Worlds
First Ascent
Dave Graham established TSOTW in January 2005, naming it the “new standard for 8C” and solidifying its status as one of the hardest boulders of its time. The problem represented a significant step forward in bouldering difficulty following the downgrading of Fred Nicole’s Dreamtime, located on the same boulder.
Notable Repeats
- Dai Koyamada (2010 & 2012): Five years after Graham’s first ascent, Dai Koyamada made the first repeat in May 2010. However, controversy arose over whether Dai had used the correct starting holds. Determined to settle the debate, Dai returned to TSOTW in 2012, making a repeat from an even lower start. This addition involved matching an undercling with a double toe hook, which he proposed as a V16 variation of the original problem.
- Paul Robinson (2011): Paul Robinson began working on TSOTW in September 2010, eventually claiming a repeat in March 2011. His ascent came after six months of effort and an unfortunate near-send invalidated by a tree dab. Robinson attributed his success to discovering an alternative beta for the final crux, which made the problem more manageable.
- Alex Megos (2015): German climber Alex Megos completed TSOTW in just four days. Despite rain-soaked conditions on his third day, he efficiently pieced together the sequence, sending the problem on his first attempt during his final session.
Since these ascents, TSOTW has become a rite of passage for elite climbers, with over 16 documented repeats. The problem remains a benchmark for the V15/8C grade and a test piece for advanced bouldering skills.
FAQs
How does TSOTW compare to other V15 boulders?
TSOTW is considered a benchmark for the grade, requiring a combination of extreme finger strength, precise technique, and endurance. Its historical significance and difficulty make it one of the most iconic V15s in the world.
What makes the problem so controversial?
Debate surrounding Dai Koyamada’s 2010 ascent brought attention to the specific starting holds. This controversy highlighted the importance of agreed-upon beta in validating boulder problems.
Is the low start variation widely attempted?
The V16 low start introduced by Dai Koyamada has not seen as many attempts due to its added difficulty and complexity.