Routesetting isn’t just about placing holds on a wall; it’s an intricate blend of art, strategy, and understanding of movement. Dino Dokoza-Nikpalj, the Chief Setter at BoulderIsland, has mastered this craft, creating boulder problems that are both challenging and fun. Known for his thoughtful approach and creative flair, Dino brings each climbing wall to life with problems that test physical ability, mental acuity, and a climber’s connection with movement.
We had the privilege of interviewing Dino to dive into his routesetting process, from visualizing problems to refining them through testing. His responses shed light on the immense effort and creativity involved in crafting routes that resonate with climbers of all levels. A big thank you to Dino for taking the time to share his insights! Be sure to follow him on Instagram (@dino.routesetting) for more routesetting inspiration and updates from BoulderIsland.
How do you approach creating boulder problems that are both fun and challenging for climbers?
According to Dino, the key to creating a great boulder problem lies in answering a few foundational questions:
- What grade do I want the boulder to be?
- What do the climbing wall and holds allow me to create?
- How much space is available?
- Is the climb safe?
- What are the skill levels of the climbers in the gym?
These questions provide Dino with a framework to filter his creative ideas and organize his approach. From there, he takes a step back to observe the blank wall and available holds, letting his imagination guide the process. “I start visualizing the climb,” Dino explains. “Imagination is key, but I don’t restrict myself to the initial plan—it’s just a starting point.”
Often, he begins with the crux—the most challenging sequence of moves—and works backward to design the start and finish. This method ensures that the boulder’s difficulty and flow feel balanced throughout.
Dino emphasizes the importance of including an element of “sketchiness” in his climbs. “By sketchiness, I mean that the climber’s muscles shouldn’t be fully relaxed, but they also shouldn’t be under maximum strain,” he says. This balance allows climbers to connect deeply with their movements, creating a sensation of “dancing on the wall.”
To add a challenge, Dino designs routes to appear more straightforward than they actually are. “Climbers might think, ‘I’ve got this,’ only to fall unexpectedly at a specific move,” he shares. This moment of reflection and analysis is what transforms a boulder into a climber’s project, and for Dino, it’s a sign that he’s succeeded in crafting a meaningful climb.
What inspires the movement or theme of a particular route you’re setting?
Dino draws inspiration from the walls and holds themselves, letting the physical aspects of the gym shape his vision. “I like to physically grab and feel each hold,” Dino says. “It helps me understand its texture, difficulty, and how it interacts with the wall’s angle.”
Rather than forcing a pre-conceived idea, Dino allows the holds and wall to guide him organically. “Sometimes you can waste an entire day chasing a vision that just doesn’t work,” he admits. By staying adaptable, he ensures that his creative process remains practical and efficient.
How do you test and refine a problem to ensure it flows as intended?
Testing is a cornerstone of Dino’s routesetting philosophy, consuming up to 70% of his time and effort. “Creating a route is all about inspiration and imagination, but testing is the reality check,” he explains.
Dino relies on an A-frame ladder for stability while experimenting with specific moves, especially on steep or overhanging sections. This allows him to get a feel for the difficulty and flow of the route before testing it in its entirety.
Collaborating with his routesetting team is another vital part of the process. “I always ask my colleagues for detailed feedback,” Dino says. Their interpretations and experiences help refine the problem, ensuring that it resonates with climbers as intended.

What’s the biggest misconception climbers have about routesetting?
Many climbers underestimate the complexity and effort involved in routesetting. Dino humorously describes it as “construction-site art,” a phrase that encapsulates both the physical labor and creative expression required for the job.
“Physically, it’s exhausting,” Dino says. “You’re lifting heavy volumes, holding a drill for hours, and then testing routes in your climbing shoes.”
He also touches on the mental side of the work: “You’re essentially presenting yourself through your creations. If you don’t believe in yourself, those doubts can hold you back.”
Dino recalls a moment when a climber leaned on a particularly expensive volume and casually asked where they throw away “plastic” holds when they get dirty. “I had to explain that the route he was leaning on cost thousands of euros,” Dino laughs, highlighting the misconceptions about the tools and materials used in modern climbing gyms.
How do you balance catering to climbers of all skill levels while keeping the gym’s offerings fresh and engaging?
Balancing routes for beginners, intermediates, and pros is like orchestrating a symphony, Dino explains.
For beginners, he prioritizes simplicity and confidence-building. “I want them to feel like superheroes after climbing their first route,” he says, “while still sneaking in enough challenge to keep them learning.”
For intermediate and advanced climbers, Dino focuses on creativity and complexity. “If I can make them pause mid-climb and think, ‘Wait, what?’ then I know I’m on the right track,” he shares.
To keep things fresh, Dino avoids repeating himself, drawing inspiration from unique themes, unconventional movements, and quirky holds. “Sometimes you need to shake things up to keep climbers engaged,” he says. Feedback from climbers and his team plays a crucial role in fine-tuning this balance.
Dino Dokoza-Nikpalj’s routes at BoulderIsland are a testament to his passion, skill, and dedication to the climbing community. His thoughtful approach to routesetting creates problems that challenge climbers of all levels while keeping the experience fun and rewarding.

We extend our gratitude to Dino for sharing his expertise and offering a glimpse into the art of routesetting. Don’t forget to follow him on Instagram for more insights into his work at BoulderIsland and beyond.
Next time you step into a climbing gym, take a moment to appreciate the effort and creativity that go into every route. Behind every problem lies a story, a challenge, and a routesetter’s vision waiting to be explored. Happy climbing!