Grade: V16/8C+
Location: Brno, Czech Republic
First Ascent: Adam Ondra (November 10, 2011)
Moves: 17-move traverse
Table of Contents
The Moves
Terranova is a brutal 17-move traverse across a near-featureless limestone wall in Moravský Kras, near Brno, Czechia. Known for its extreme difficulty, this line demands immense finger strength, precision, and unwavering determination. The sequence is a crimp-heavy battle that pushes climbers to their limits.
The standout crux features a sloping right-hand pinch followed by a left-hand thumb catch—a sequence that Ondra described as one of the hardest single moves he’s encountered on any boulder problem. The holds are notoriously sharp and unforgiving, adding to the physical and mental challenge.
While Terranova isn’t known for its aesthetic beauty or dramatic exposure, its technical demands and historical significance have earned it legendary status among the climbing elite.
Conquering Terranova
First Ascent
Adam Ondra’s journey to conquer Terranova began as early as 2004 when he first envisioned the potential of this daunting traverse. For years, the young climber used the problem as a training ground, dedicating countless sessions after school to the sequence. It became a personal testpiece, driving him to become a stronger climber.
In 2011, Ondra fully committed to the project, spending 12 intense days projecting the traverse. On November 10, he succeeded, naming the line “Terranova,” meaning “new land” in Italian, to signify his shift from sport climbing to the extreme challenges of bouldering. At the time, the V16 grade represented the pinnacle of difficulty, and Terranova was among the first boulders to be established at this level.
Notable Attempts and Developments
Since Ondra’s groundbreaking ascent, Terranova has remained unrepeated, standing as a testament to its difficulty. British climber Will Bosi, known for his remarkable achievements in hard bouldering, has made significant efforts to repeat the line. In 2022, Bosi attempted the traverse but was “completely shut down,” calling the crimps and pinches some of the worst holds he had ever used.
Bosi returned in 2023 for another attempt, comparing Terranova’s difficulty to the infamous Burden of Dreams. While a repeat remains elusive, his dedication keeps the boulder in the spotlight.
Another promising climber, Czech native Jana Svecova, has also taken on the challenge. In early 2023, she reported progress on Terranova, completing all the individual moves in just two days. However, linking the sequence remains an obstacle. In July 2023, Svecova established a variation called Nova, which starts differently but reconnects with the original line after two moves. She graded Nova at V14/8B+, though Will Bosi later suggested an upgrade to V15 after his ascent, citing its difficulty.
These developments raise questions about whether Terranova could be upgraded to V17 if repeated.
FAQs
Why is Terranova considered so difficult?
Terranova’s challenge lies in its 17 moves across sharp, nearly non-existent holds. The crux sequence demands immense precision and finger strength, making it a testpiece for even the best climbers.
Has anyone repeated Terranova?
As of now, Terranova remains unrepeated. Climbers like Will Bosi and Jana Svecova have made significant attempts, but no successful repeat has been reported.
What makes the crux of Terranova unique?
The crux involves transitioning from a sloping right-hand pinch to a left-hand thumb catch, requiring extraordinary grip strength and body tension.