Soudain Seul V16/V17 – 8C+/9A

Grade: V16/V17 – 8C+/9A

Location: Fontainebleau, France

First Ascent: Simon Lorenzi (February 8, 2021)

Moves: ~20


Table of Contents


The Moves

Soudain Seul, located in the heart of Fontainebleau, starts with a sit-down entry to The Big Island, one of the world’s most repeated V15s. This lower start climbs a perfectly sculpted sandstone rail, adding 6–7 moves of intricate, V12-level difficulty into the established V15.


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The beginning section demands precise footwork on small edges, combined with body tension and kneebars, creating a seamless yet physically draining transition into the upper section. As climbers progress, the wide double-heel-hook position and sloper squeezing put equal strain on the upper and lower body. The challenge lies in conserving enough energy through the sit start to tackle the already strenuous V15 top section.

Jon Glassberg famously suffered a herniated disc working the upper portion of the climb, a testament to the sheer physicality required to complete it. As Simon Lorenzi noted, the route demands efficiency to avoid burning out before reaching the crimp marking the end of the hardest moves.


Conquering Soudain Seul

First Ascent

Simon Lorenzi claimed the first ascent of Soudain Seul after 25 sessions, in addition to time spent on The Big Island. Lorenzi innovatively used a book tucked into his kneepad to widen the span of his kneebar, naming the problem after the title of the book, Soudain Seul (Suddenly Alone).

Initially hesitant to assign the V17 grade, Lorenzi eventually proposed it as a low-end V17, citing its step above other V16 boulders. This suggestion sparked debate within the climbing community, but the difficulty of the climb remains undisputed.

Notable Repeats

  • Second Ascent: Nico Pelorson followed Lorenzi, dedicating months to training and projecting the boulder. While he successfully completed it, Pelorson suggested downgrading it to V16, reasoning that V17 represents a significant leap in difficulty beyond his capabilities.
  • Third Ascent: On February 12, 2022, Camille Coudert completed the third ascent after approximately 100 attempts. Coudert supported Lorenzi’s initial V17 proposal, comparing it to other climbs in the V15–V16 range and finding it more aligned with the higher grade.

As the grade remains debated, future ascents will likely help solidify Soudain Seul’s place in the bouldering difficulty scale.


FAQs

What makes Soudain Seul so challenging?

The problem combines a V12 sit start with the V15 Big Island, requiring intricate technique, efficient movement, and extraordinary strength across ~20 moves.

Why is the grade of Soudain Seul debated?

Simon Lorenzi proposed V17, but Nico Pelorson suggested V16, reflecting the fine margins at the cutting edge of climbing. Camille Coudert agreed with the V17 grade. Further ascents will likely settle the debate.

What is unique about Lorenzi’s ascent?

Lorenzi used a book placed inside his kneepad to widen his kneebar span. This creative adaptation sparked discussions about what constitutes aid in climbing.


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