A pair of climbing shoes hanging from carabiners on a metal wire against a rocky background, representing a pause in an outdoor climbing adventure.

How to Choose the Perfect Climbing Shoes: Avoid Mistakes

Choosing the perfect climbing shoes is about more than just finding the right size—it’s about getting the ideal fit for your foot shape and climbing style. Whether you’re looking for comfort on long trad routes or precision on steep boulder problems, understanding your foot type and climbing preferences is key to finding the perfect shoe.

These are the key factors I consider when buying climbing shoes after years of experience—both good and bad—learning what works and what doesn’t. Hopefully, my insights can help you make a more informed choice and avoid the trial-and-error process I went through.

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Table of Contents


Match Shoes to Your Climbing Style

Each climbing style benefits from specific shoe features, from aggressive downturns for steep bouldering to flat, supportive soles for long multi-pitch routes. Here’s a quick breakdown:

  • Bouldering: Look for aggressive shoes with a downturned profile for enhanced power on overhangs and smaller holds.
  • Sport Climbing: Moderately downturned shoes offer a balance of comfort and performance.
Back view of a La Sportiva Skwama climbing shoe placed on a hardwood floor. The shoe features its signature heel design with the La Sportiva logo visible, showcasing its aggressive downturn and rubberized heel for optimal grip.
Image by author.
  • Trad and Multi-Pitch Climbing: Choose neutral or slightly downturned shoes with extra padding for all-day wear.
  • Indoor Climbing: A versatile shoe with medium stiffness and sticky rubber is ideal for the variety of holds and textures found in gyms.

Choosing a shoe based on your primary climbing style helps you focus on the features that provide the best performance and comfort. I used to resist limiting myself to just one shoe, but over time, I realized that being realistic and selecting a shoe that aligns with my favorite style made the most sense. After all, the style you enjoy the most is the one you’ll progress in the fastest—that’s how I see it.

Shoe Shape: Neutral, Moderate, or Aggressive?

Climbing shoes come in three main shapes, each designed for a different level of performance and comfort:

  • Neutral Shoes: With a flat sole, these shoes offer comfort for long climbs and are best for beginners and trad climbers.
  • Moderate Shoes: Slightly downturned for added precision, moderate shoes are great for sport climbing and technical routes.
  • Aggressive Shoes: With a sharp downturn, these shoes are built for maximum control and power on difficult, steep climbs.
A climber tightening La Sportiva Tarantula shoes while sitting on a rocky surface, ready for an outdoor climb, with the yellow and gray design prominent.
A pair of La Sportiva Tarantula climbing shoes with bright green and black details, designed for comfort and performance.

Foot Shape: Greek, Egyptian, and Roman

Your foot shape significantly affects how climbing shoes fit, especially in the toe box. Here’s how to choose shoes based on Greek, Egyptian, or Roman foot types.

Greek Foot (Second Toe Longer Than the First)

If your second toe is longer than your big toe, you have what’s known as a “Greek” foot. Greek-footed climbers often need a shoe that doesn’t taper too tightly around the big toe.

  • Best Shape: Shoes with a more rounded or symmetrical toe box to accommodate the longer second toe.
  • Recommended Styles: Neutral or moderate shoes with a roomier toe box are a great choice for all-day comfort and versatility. From my experience, La Sportiva Mythos and Five Ten Anasazi fit best in this category.
  • Fit Tip: Avoid shoes with a sharply pointed toe box, which can pressure your second toe.

Egyptian Foot (Big Toe Longest, Toes Descend in Length)

Egyptian feet have a long big toe and shorter toes in descending order, making pointed shoes a good fit.

Side view of a Scarpa Drago climbing shoe, highlighting its sleek, downturned profile and minimalistic closure system. The shoe's sensitive rubber sole and asymmetrical design are visible, emphasizing its suitability for steep terrain and technical footwork.
Image by author.
  • Best Shape: Tapered toe box, which aligns with the big toe and provides a secure fit for precision.
  • Recommended Styles: Aggressive shoes with a pointed toe, like the La Sportiva Solution or Scarpa Drago, ideal for precise, technical moves.
  • Fit Tip: Egyptian-footed climbers often benefit from going down half a size for a snug, supportive fit.

Roman Foot (First Three Toes of Equal Length)

Roman feet, where the first three toes are nearly the same length, often require a wider toe box for comfort.

  • Best Shape: Square or rounded toe box, offering a bit more space for toes.
  • Recommended Styles: Neutral or moderate shoes, like the Evolv Defy or Scarpa Vapor V, which provide a square fit for comfort over long climbs.
  • Fit Tip: Avoid narrow, pointed shoes that can cause discomfort and cramping during extended wear.

Choose Your Closure System

Climbing shoes typically come with lace-up, Velcro, or slip-on closures. Each has its pros and cons:

  • Lace-Up Shoes: Maximum adjustability, perfect for climbers needing a custom fit.
  • Velcro Shoes: They strike the perfect balance between slip-ons and lace-ups—offering the convenience of quick wear while still allowing for an adjustable fit. I love how they combine the best of both worlds, making them a great option for sessions where you need efficiency without compromising comfort or performance.
  • Slip-On Shoes: Flexible and minimalist, Easy on-and-off, Ideal for developing footwork and sensitivity.

Consider Shoe Materials and Stretch

The materials used in climbing shoes affect how they stretch, fit, and perform:

  • Leather Shoes: Stretch over time, which can adapt well to Greek and Roman feet.
  • Synthetic Shoes: Tend to retain their shape, ideal for Egyptian feet.
  • Lined vs. Unlined: Unlined leather stretches more than lined, so size down slightly if you’re opting for unlined.
La Sportiva Skwama climbing shoes hanging from a light fixture outdoors, with greenery and flowers in the background.
La Sportiva Skwama climbing shoes hanging on a makeshift light fixture outdoors, against a backdrop of greenery and flowers.

Rubber Type and Thickness

The type and thickness of rubber affect grip and durability:

  • Soft Rubber: High grip, ideal for bouldering and overhanging routes.
  • Hard Rubber: More durable, best for edging on small holds during longer trad or multi-pitch climbs.
  • Thickness: 3-4 mm offers better sensitivity; 4-5 mm is more durable.

Try Different Brands and Models

Brands often design shoes with specific foot shapes in mind. For instance, La Sportiva and Scarpa cater to narrower feet, while Evolv and Five Ten are often wider. Trying on different brands can help you find a model tailored to your unique foot shape.

A climber ascends a colorful indoor climbing wall filled with diverse holds, demonstrating balance and strength on a well-set route.
A climber scaling an artificial climbing wall with colorful holds and overhangs, demonstrating lead climbing techniques.

Final Fit Tips

  • Fit for Comfort, Not Pain: Shoes should feel snug without causing pain.
  • Check Toe Box Shape: Rounded or symmetrical toe boxes work well for Greek feet, tapered toes suit Egyptian feet, and squared toes suit Roman feet.
  • Allow for Break-In Time: Leather stretches over time, while synthetic shoes hold their shape.

FAQs

Should climbing shoes fit tightly?

Yes, climbing shoes should be snug to provide control and prevent slipping but shouldn’t be painful.

What is the best shoe type for beginners?

Neutral shoes are ideal for beginners as they offer a balance of comfort and support for learning technique on varied routes.

How do I know if my shoe will stretch?

Leather shoes will stretch around half a size, while synthetic shoes retain their shape. Consider sizing down slightly for leather shoes if they’re unlined.

What closure system is best for different foot shapes?

Lace-ups are ideal for Roman feet needing adjustment; Velcro suits Egyptian feet for a tapered fit, while slip-ons suit Greek feet for even pressure distribution.

What’s the difference between soft and hard rubber?

Soft rubber provides excellent grip but wears quickly, making it ideal for technical routes. Hard rubber is more durable, ideal for trad and multi-pitch climbs.