Off the Wagon V14/8B+

Grade: V14/8B+

Location: Val Bavona, Ticino, Switzerland

First Ascent: Nalle Hukkataival (November 22, 2012)

Moves: 13


Table of Contents


The Moves

Off the Wagon is a 13-move powerhouse located in the idyllic Val Bavona of Ticino, Switzerland. The boulder begins with a standing start from the wagon itself, leading into a steep 50° overhang. The crux arrives early, with a dead-point campus crossover to a shallow right-hand pocket. This powerful sequence sets the tone for the problem, demanding precision and strength as climbers traverse a horizontal crack before reaching the right-hand arête.


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The problem culminates in an easier outro sequence, but success hinges on sticking the notoriously difficult crux move. Chris Sharma’s beta for the crux, featured in Dosage IV, has become the go-to sequence for climbers attempting this iconic line.

For those seeking an even greater challenge, the sit start variant adds seven moves of intense V16 (8C+) climbing into the established stand start, making it one of the hardest boulders in Switzerland.


Conquering Off the Wagon

First Ascent

Nalle Hukkataival completed the first ascent of Off the Wagon in November 2012 after sporadically working the problem for over six years. Returning to Val Bavona that autumn, Hukkataival dedicated three sessions to the boulder before successfully linking the sequence. He fell off the crux move at least eight times before finally sticking it and topping out. Reflecting on his efforts, Nalle suggested a grade of V14/8B+.

Notable Repeats

  • Jan Hojer claimed the first repeat just two days after Nalle’s ascent. Hojer completed the boulder in 20 attempts over two sessions, showcasing the problem’s demanding yet repeatable nature. While Hojer suggested a personal downgrade to V13/8B+ due to his height advantage, he acknowledged that the climb remains significantly harder for shorter climbers.
  • Shawn Raboutou pushed the boundaries further in November 2018 by completing the first ascent of the sit start variant, Off the Wagon Low. This extension adds seven additional moves graded at V16 (8C+), elevating the problem’s status as a global benchmark in difficulty.
  • Jimmy Webb added his name to the list of elite climbers who have conquered Off the Wagon Sit Start in 2020. During a trip to Ticino, Webb made the second ascent of this challenging V16 (8C+) line, solidifying its reputation as one of Switzerland’s hardest boulders.

FAQs

What is the difference between the stand and sit start for Off the Wagon?

The stand start begins from the wagon and is graded V14 (8B+). The sit start adds seven moves of V16 (8C+) difficulty, significantly increasing the challenge and endurance required.

Why is Off the Wagon so iconic?

Off the Wagon gained fame through its appearances in climbing documentaries like Dosage IV, featuring Chris Sharma and Dave Graham. Its unique start from a wagon, combined with its difficulty, has made it a test piece for elite climbers.

When is the best time to climb Off the Wagon?

The boulder is inaccessible from April to October due to local land conservation efforts. Climbers should plan their visits between November and March.


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