Monkey Wedding V15/8C

Grade: V15/8C

Location: Rocklands, South Africa

First Ascent: Fred Nicole (August 20, 2002)

Moves: 14


Table of Contents


The Moves

Monkey Wedding is a 14-move boulder problem located on the iconic A Question of Balance Boulder in Rocklands, South Africa. Known for its sharp holds and technical crux sequences, this line traverses challenging terrain that demands precision, power, and mental resilience.


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The crux of the problem is notoriously difficult, requiring climbers to maintain body tension while negotiating razor-sharp holds. The route has seen several revisions in grading over time, with climbers now widely agreeing that it deserves its V15/8C status, making it one of Rocklands’ hardest and most iconic problems.


Conquering Monkey Wedding

First Ascent

Fred Nicole established Monkey Wedding in August 2002, initially grading it at V14 (8B+). Nicole’s ascent was groundbreaking, as it was one of the first problems to approach the 8C grade range. His pioneering effort laid the foundation for Monkey Wedding to become a test piece for elite climbers in the years to come.

Notable Repeats

  • Paul Robinson (2010): After eight years without a repeat, Paul Robinson unlocked the problem on August 25, 2010, following two months of effort. He battled through hot South African summer temperatures and cited the climb as a “huge mental and physical struggle.” Robinson suggested upgrading the grade to V15, calling it his second hardest send at the time, behind Lucid Dreaming.
  • Adam Ondra (2011): The Czech climbing prodigy claimed the third ascent in just four days, calling Monkey Wedding his “hardest problem so far.” Ondra’s remarkable efficiency further validated the upgraded grade.
  • Daniel Woods (2012): Woods made the fourth ascent, describing the line as “mentally challenging” due to the sharp holds, which limited the number of attempts per session.
  • Dave Graham (2016): Monkey Wedding became one of Graham’s global nemesis projects, requiring multiple trips and nearly two weeks of effort. He eventually unlocked the crux sequence and completed the climb in August 2016.
  • Other Notable Ascents: Climbers like Alex Megos, who sent the problem in just 30 minutes, and Charles Albert, who famously topped out barefoot, have added to Monkey Wedding’s storied legacy.

FAQs

What makes Monkey Wedding so challenging?

The problem’s sharp holds, technical crux sequences, and physical demands require climbers to have exceptional strength and precision. Its unforgiving nature limits the number of attempts per session.

Why is Monkey Wedding significant in bouldering history?

Fred Nicole’s first ascent marked a new level of difficulty, and its subsequent repeats by some of the world’s top climbers have solidified its status as a benchmark V15 problem.

Can beginners attempt Monkey Wedding?

Due to its sharp holds and high-grade difficulty, Monkey Wedding is best suited for experienced climbers familiar with advanced bouldering techniques.


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