Midnight Lightning V8/7B

Grade: V8/7B

Location: Yosemite Valley, United States

First Ascent: Ron Kauk (July 1, 1978)

Height: 25ft


Table of Contents


The Moves

Midnight Lightning, located on the Columbia Boulder in Yosemite’s Camp 4, is a legendary testpiece that combines technical precision with bold movement. The climb starts on slick crimps before transitioning to an undercling crimp for the right hand. From here, climbers navigate a sequence requiring delicate footwork and a powerful move to a high right-hand hold—either a dyno or a controlled dead point, depending on your reach.

Once established, the sequence leads to a sloping ledge on the lip, where the real challenge begins. The mantle is notorious for shutting climbers down. It involves leveraging the right foot on the lip and pressing the left palm down to rock up, followed by a precise reach to a crimp with the right hand. Standing up on the lip marks the triumphant finish of this 25-foot masterpiece.

The combination of technical difficulty, strength requirements, and the sheer height of the climb makes it a true classic, cementing its place in climbing history.


Conquering Midnight Lightning

First Ascent

In 1978, Ron Kauk made history by completing the first ascent of Midnight Lightning, naming it after the closing track on Jimi Hendrix’s South Saturn Delta. The route was initially envisioned by John Yablonski, who spotted the potential line and encouraged his friends, including Kauk and John Bachar, to try it. At first, the moves seemed impossible, but through perseverance, Kauk eventually succeeded after four months of effort.

Kauk’s groundbreaking ascent marked only the second boulder in the world to receive a V8/7B rating, setting a new standard for difficulty in the discipline. The moment was accompanied by the sounds of Hendrix’s guitar, creating an iconic moment in climbing culture. Kauk left his mark on the boulder, drawing a chalk lightning bolt on the rock—a symbol that remains a cherished part of the route’s legacy.

Impact and Influence

Midnight Lightning quickly became a rite of passage for climbers around the globe. Its unique blend of technical moves and historical significance draws climbers of all skill levels, from amateurs dreaming of sending their first hard problem to seasoned professionals seeking to join the ranks of those who’ve conquered this iconic climb.

The preserved lightning bolt on the Columbia Boulder has become an enduring emblem of the problem, symbolizing the shared history and passion of the climbing community. As Ron Kauk reflects, “It was a rite of passage. And it was symbolic. Still, it is to this day… It was all timing. If I hadn’t done it, someone else would have.”


FAQs

Why is Midnight Lightning so famous?

Midnight Lightning is not only a challenging climb but also a symbol of bouldering’s history and evolution. Its difficulty, combined with the preserved lightning bolt and its location in Yosemite, makes it a globally recognized testpiece.

How difficult is the mantle on Midnight Lightning?

The mantle is one of the most challenging aspects of the climb. It requires precise body positioning, strength, and balance, making it a notorious crux for many climbers.

What does the lightning bolt symbolize?

The chalk lightning bolt, originally drawn by Ron Kauk, represents the monumental challenge of the climb and the camaraderie of the global climbing community. It has become a preserved piece of climbing history.


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