Magdust Review: Everything You Need to Know

Climbing chalk plays an essential role in every climber’s toolkit, enhancing grip, absorbing sweat, and helping prolong the life of holds. With a wide range of chalk options on the market, it can be tough to determine which one best suits your needs. Recently, MagDust by Magnus Midtbo has gained attention in the climbing community for its high-performance formula. In this review, we put MagDust to the test in various climbing scenarios to determine whether it lives up to the hype. Click here to buy it!


Table of Contents


About MagDust Chalk

MagDust chalk, created by Rungne, is a premium blend of magnesium carbonate and other high-quality ingredients. The brand claims its chalk provides superior sweat absorption, improved friction, and longer-lasting coverage than traditional climbing chalk. Available in loose powder, MagDust aims to cater to both indoor and outdoor climbers looking for optimal performance across various climbing disciplines.


Performance Test of MagDust Chalk

To give an accurate assessment of MagDust, we tested it across multiple climbing settings, including bouldering, sport climbing, and indoor training. We also compared it to other brands that we know could compete with it, including Friction Labs, Metolius, and Petzl, evaluating the following factors:

1. Sweat Absorption

MagDust chalk stands out for its excellent sweat absorption. During intense climbing sessions, we found our hands stayed dry and grippy with minimal need for reapplication. MagDust’s sweat absorption was on par with, if not slightly better than, premium brands like Friction Labs and Metolius.

Close-up of a climber's hand firmly gripping a rugged rock, illustrating precise hand positioning during a climb.
A close-up of a climber’s hand gripping a rugged rock surface, showcasing strength and focus.

2. Friction and Grip

The friction and grip provided by MagDust were impressive across a variety of holds, from smooth slopers to sharp crimps. The formula enhanced grip consistency and reliability, especially on complex routes and varied textures.

Compared to other high-quality brands like Friction Labs and Petzl, MagDust chalk performed consistently well in providing secure, reliable grip across different climbing styles.

3. Coverage and Duration

One of MagDust’s best qualities is its long-lasting coverage. Thanks to its fine texture and superior distribution, only a small amount of chalk is needed to maintain a consistent layer on the hands. This reduced the frequency of reapplication, allowing us to focus more on the climb.

MagDust offers similar or better coverage than comparable brands, making it a convenient and long-lasting option for extended sessions.

4. Mess and Residue

Compared to other climbing chalks, MagDust produced minimal mess and left little residue on holds and in chalk bags. This fine texture and low-dust formula contributed to a cleaner climbing experience overall.

MagDust stands out for its cleanliness, producing less dust and residue on both the holds and the climber. This is something I really appreciate, especially when visiting smaller gyms where ventilation isn’t as robust. It helps keep the air clearer and the climbing environment more comfortable.

A climber with chalk-covered hands reaching into a red and black chalk bag, ready for their next climbing challenge.
A climber prepares for the next ascent by chalking up their hands, with climbing shoes ready for action.

Pros and Cons of MagDust Chalk

Pros:

  • Outstanding Sweat Absorption: On par with, or slightly better than, other premium chalk brands.
  • Enhanced Friction and Grip: Provides consistent grip on various holds and climbing surfaces.
  • Long-Lasting Coverage: A small amount goes a long way, reducing the need for frequent reapplication.
  • Minimal Mess and Residue: Results in a cleaner climbing experience with less dust.
  • High Value for Money: Though a bit pricier, it provides good value due to its lasting coverage and reduced reapplication needs.

Cons:

  • Higher Price Point: Slightly more expensive than some other chalks, though the performance benefits may justify the cost for many climbers.

Final Verdict: Is MagDust Chalk Worth It?

After extensive testing and comparing MagDust to well-known climbing chalk brands, we can confidently say that it is a high-performing choice for climbers of all levels. Its unique formula offers outstanding sweat absorption, reliable grip, and long-lasting coverage, with the added benefit of a cleaner application and minimal mess. For climbers looking for quality and durability, MagDust is an excellent investment.

A climber on a steep slab rock face surrounded by a lush forest, focusing on precise foot placement and balance.
A climber ascends a rugged cliff, surrounded by lush greenery and the expansive wilderness of Canada.

While MagDust chalk may be a bit more expensive than other brands, its performance and value make it a worthwhile purchase for serious climbers. Compared to industry favorites like Friction Labs, Metolius, and Petzl, MagDust holds its own and is certainly worth a try.

Ultimately, the choice of climbing chalk comes down to personal preference and specific climbing needs. However, based on our experience with MagDust, we highly recommend giving it a try. Its combination of grip, durability, and cleanliness could make a noticeable difference in your climbing experience.

Happy climbing!


FAQs

How does MagDust compare to Friction Labs in terms of grip?

MagDust provides a similar level of reliable grip, though some climbers find its slightly finer texture offers a more consistent experience on varied surfaces.

Is MagDust chalk worth the higher price?

Yes, many climbers (including me) find the price worthwhile due to MagDust’s durability, sweat absorption, and reduced reapplication needs.

Can I use MagDust chalk for both indoor and outdoor climbing?

Absolutely. MagDust is versatile and performs well in both indoor gyms and outdoor crags, making it a great all-around chalk choice.

Does MagDust chalk leave a lot of residue?

MagDust has a low-dust formula, resulting in minimal residue on holds and a cleaner overall climbing experience.