Jour de Chasse V14/8B+

Grade: V14/8B+

Location: Fontainebleau, France

First Ascent: Jan Hojer (December 8, 2013)

Moves: 12


Table of Contents


The Moves

Jour de Chasse is a 12-move masterpiece located in Fontainebleau’s iconic Opium bouldering area. The line features a mix of large pockets, crimps, and slopers on sandstone, making it a quintessential Fontainebleau challenge.


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The climb begins on a crimp rail and launches into a dynamic move to a large, sloping pocket. Climbers then traverse to another sizable pocket before engaging the problem’s crux—a sloper at the lip requiring immense body tension and precision. The final four moves demand careful use of sloping, open-hand features before reaching the top.

The opening sequence originally featured a powerful dynamic move, as used by first ascensionist Jan Hojer, who relied on a one-armed swing to control the pocket. However, more recent ascents have uncovered an alternative beta using a high left heel hook, making the start less physically demanding.


Conquering Jour de Chasse

First Ascent

Jan Hojer established Jour de Chasse on December 8, 2013, taking the most prominent line directly up the center of the boulder. His dynamic beta for the first move set the tone for the route’s difficulty, but later climbers have found easier alternatives, slightly softening the challenge.

Notable Ascents

Since Hojer’s groundbreaking ascent, Jour de Chasse has become a benchmark test piece for elite climbers visiting Fontainebleau. Some of the most notable repeaters include:

  • Jimmy Webb: Webb made quick work of the problem, completing it in just 15 minutes, showcasing his efficiency and mastery of Fontainebleau-style climbing.
  • Nalle Hukkataival: Known for his versatility and strength, Nalle added his name to the growing list of climbers who have tackled this line.
  • Giuliano Cameroni: Another big name in the bouldering world, Cameroni has also successfully ascended this problem, further cementing its reputation as a must-climb for the elite.

The problem has seen over a dozen repeats, with climbers generally agreeing on its grade as hovering between V14 and V15 (8B-8C).


FAQs

What is the most challenging part of Jour de Chasse?

The crux lies at the lip of the boulder, requiring strong body tension and precision to navigate the sloper and maintain balance.

Has the beta for the problem changed since the first ascent?

Yes, many climbers now use a high left heel hook for the start, avoiding the need for the dynamic swing that Jan Hojer employed during the first ascent.

Who are some notable climbers who have repeated Jour de Chasse?

Notable repeaters include Jimmy Webb, Nalle Hukkataival, and Giuliano Cameroni, all of whom have contributed to the problem’s iconic status.


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