Hangboarding is an essential training tool for climbers seeking to build finger strength, improve endurance, and break through plateaus. This guide covers everything from beginner routines to advanced hangboard workouts, as well as tips for injury prevention and progression. Whether you’re new to climbing or a seasoned pro, hangboarding can significantly boost your performance when done safely and consistently. Personally, it’s helped me break through numerous plateaus by building confidence and strengthening my tendons, reducing the risk of injuries.
Table of Contents
What is Hangboarding?
Hangboarding, also known as fingerboard training, involves hanging from various holds on a specialized training tool designed to mimic climbing grips. It’s highly effective for strengthening your fingers, forearms, and shoulders, making it a staple in many climbers’ training routines. To help you get started, I’ve included my beginner hangboarding routine as well as my most recent one, which I’ve adjusted as I’ve grown stronger.

Why Train with a Hangboard?
Hangboarding isolates and strengthens muscles and tendons that regular climbing may not fully engage. When used properly, it offers numerous benefits:
- Increased Finger Strength: Essential for gripping small holds on challenging routes.
- Targeted Training: Focuses on specific climbing muscles.
- Controlled Progression: Allows measurable improvement in grip strength and endurance.
However, hangboarding should only be started after at least six months of climbing experience to minimize injury risk.
Beginner Hangboarding Plan
For climbers new to hangboarding, I would focus on building a safe and strong foundation. Use large holds, practice proper form, and limit sessions to twice a week.
Key Principles for Beginners
- Grip Selection: Use open-hand or half-crimp grips to avoid excessive strain.
- Hold Size: Start with large holds, such as 20mm edges or jugs.
- Rest Periods: Allow at least one day of rest between sessions.

Beginner Hangboard Workout
Warm-Up (15–20 minutes)
- Cardio: Jog or do jumping jacks for 5–10 minutes to increase blood flow.
- Dynamic Stretches: Perform wrist circles, arm swings, and finger flicks.
- Light Climbing: Warm up on easy routes or large holds.
Main Workout (Twice Weekly)
- Hold: Choose a comfortable edge, around 20mm.
- Exercise: Hang for 10 seconds.
- Rest: Rest for 30 seconds between hangs.
- Reps: Perform 4 hangs per set.
- Sets: Complete 3 sets, resting 2 minutes between sets.
After 2–4 weeks, you can reduce the hold size or increase hang time for progression.

Cooldown (10–15 minutes)
- Light Hangs: Use jugs to gently cool down your muscles.
- Stretching: Focus on fingers, forearms, and shoulders to aid recovery.
Advanced Hangboarding Plan
For experienced climbers, hangboarding becomes more intense, with smaller holds, added weight, and advanced grip variations.
Key Principles for Advanced Training
- Grip Variety: Incorporate slopers, pinches, and monos for targeted strength.
- Weighted Hangs: Add 5–10% of your body weight to increase intensity.
- Frequency: Train 3–4 times per week with periodization to prevent overtraining.
Advanced Hangboard Workout
Warm-Up (20–30 minutes)
- Cardio: Engage in 10 minutes of light cardio.
- Dynamic Stretches: Include eccentric wrist curls and shoulder band work.
- Light Bouldering: Focus on efficient movements to activate climbing muscles.

Main Workout (3–4 Times Weekly)
- Hold: Use smaller edges, slopers, or pockets.
- Weighted Hangs: Hang for 7 seconds with added weight.
- Micro-Rests: Rest for 3 seconds between hangs.
- Reps: Perform 5 hangs per set.
- Sets: Complete 5 sets with 2–3 minutes of rest between sets.
Progress by increasing weight, reducing hold size, or lengthening hang time.
Cooldown (15–20 minutes)
- Stretching: Focus on fingers, forearms, and shoulders.
- Recovery Techniques: Use contrast baths or massage to reduce inflammation.
Hangboarding for Endurance
Endurance-focused routines help climbers sustain grip strength for longer periods, crucial for tackling endurance routes.
Endurance Routine
- Hold: Use medium-sized edges, around 20mm.
- Exercise: Hang for 15 seconds, rest for 5 seconds, and repeat for 3 minutes.
- Reps: Perform 1–2 cycles of this sequence.
Gradually increase hang time or reduce rest intervals as endurance improves.

Injury Prevention Tips
Hangboarding places significant stress on tendons and ligaments, so injury prevention is essential:
- Stretch Regularly: Incorporate stretches after every session.
- Rest Days: Allow recovery time between hangboard sessions.
- Recovery Techniques: Use contrast baths or ice therapy to reduce inflammation.
Listening to your body and adjusting intensity is critical for long-term success.
Final Thoughts
Hangboarding is an invaluable tool for building climbing-specific strength and endurance. Beginners should focus on safe progression using large holds and minimal sessions, while advanced climbers can adopt weighted hangs and varied grips for targeted gains. With proper technique and consistent practice, hangboarding will elevate your climbing performance and help you reach new heights.
FAQs
What is a good hangboard workout for beginners?
A beginner routine includes hanging on large holds (20mm or larger) for 10 seconds, resting for 30 seconds, and repeating for 3 sets of 4 reps twice a week.
How do you strengthen finger tendons?
Gradual fingerboard training, climbing, and using open-hand grips strengthen finger tendons. Avoid overtraining and include proper warm-ups and rest days.
Can I start hangboarding as a beginner climber?
Hangboarding is recommended only for climbers with at least six months of experience. Tendons need time to adapt to climbing stresses before engaging in focused training.
How often should I do hangboard training?
Beginners should train twice a week, while advanced climbers can train 3–4 times weekly with rest and recovery built into their schedule.
How long does it take to see results from hangboarding?
With consistent training, most climbers notice improvements in grip strength and endurance after 6–8 weeks.