Grade: V16/8C+ (suggested to be: V15/8C)
Location: Varazze, Italy
First Ascent: Christian Core (25th February, 2008)
Moves: 14
Table of Contents
The Moves
Gioia, meaning “Joy” in Italian, is a 14-move boulder problem known for its razor-sharp crimps and poor footholds. Situated in a shallow cave in Varazze, it features a challenging semi-traverse linking multiple sequences. The route begins on the left-hand side of the cave with a sit start, adding five moves in the 8B+ range, including a crux move on an impossibly small crimp. This sequence links into the stand start variation, which consists of three moves in the 8A+/8B range. The problem then transitions into the top-out section on the far-right side of the cave, finishing with a 5-move sequence graded around 7B+.
The unique demands of Gioia require meticulous body positioning, precise finger strength, and optimal friction conditions. The difficulty is heightened by its Mediterranean climate, which can cause drastic changes in rock texture, often making the crux hold nearly impossible to grip.
Conquering Gioia
The First Ascent by Christian Core
Christian Core established Gioia on February 25, 2008, after months of projecting. Initially, Core worked the stand start, but he envisioned completing the line with a sit start. Over four months, he refined his beta, enduring the sharp crimps and the cave’s condition-dependent holds. After breaking a crucial hold during a winter attempt, Core waited for better weather to avoid further damage. When conditions improved, he claimed the first ascent, calling it the hardest climb of his life and proposing an 8C/V15 grade.
Subsequent Ascents and Grade Debate
Three years after Core’s ascent, Adam Ondra claimed the second ascent in 2011. Despite requiring 11 days and only one attempt per day due to the sharp holds, Ondra suggested upgrading Gioia to 8C+/V16. He argued that Gioia was significantly harder than most 8C problems and merited the higher grade, stating that if it remained V15, many existing boulders would need downgrades.
In 2014, Nalle Hukkataival became the third climber to complete Gioia. Although he initially struggled with the sharp holds and tricky Mediterranean conditions, he managed to send the problem on February 22, 2014, after narrowly failing on a previous attempt. While acknowledging its difficulty, Hukkataival remained undecided about the 8C+ grade, noting that if Gioia were V16, other problems might also need regrading.
Controversies and Developments
In 2015, climbers like Dave Graham and Daniel Woods attempted Gioia and discovered a kneebar beta that altered the start sequence. However, a loose foothold broke during their attempts, leading Christian Core to glue it back, sparking controversy among climbers. Critics accused Core of altering the route to preserve an elimination line, igniting heated discussions within the climbing community.
In 2020, new developments arose when a crimp reportedly appeared on the problem. This alteration could affect the grade, but the impact remains to be fully evaluated.
FAQs
Why is Gioia so challenging?
Gioia’s difficulty stems from its sharp crimps, poor footholds, and condition-dependent rock, requiring precise technique and optimal weather to climb.
What is the current grade of Gioia?
The grade is debated, with suggestions ranging from V15 (8C) to V16 (8C+), depending on the climber’s perspective and beta used.
Who has climbed Gioia?
Notable ascents include Christian Core (FA, 2008), Adam Ondra (2011), and Nalle Hukkataival (2014), with several elite climbers attempting or repeating it since.