Grade: V16/8C+
Location: Mizugaki, Japan
First Ascent: Ryuichi Murai (December 10, 2021)
Moves: 5
Table of Contents
The Moves
Floatin’ is an incredibly demanding boulder problem set on a 35-degree wall of sheer granite in the forests of Mizugaki, Japan. With only five moves, this line packs a powerful punch. Known for its challenging crimping and dynamic campusing, the problem tests even the strongest climbers’ finger strength and technical prowess.
The route begins with a powerful launch from two poor starting holds to reach a left-hand pocket. From there, the intensity increases with a downward campus to a crimp near the left foot. The climber must bring their left foot down and replace it with their left hand, creating a seamless yet brutal transition. After securing the pocket with the right hand, the sequence continues with a left-hand bump to a crimp, a quick reach to a sloper, and finally, a top-out followed by an easier slab walk-off.
The sheer difficulty of these moves, coupled with the precision required, makes Floatin’ a technical masterpiece and a physically grueling climb.
Conquering Floatin’
First Ascent
Ryuichi Murai made the first ascent of Floatin’ on December 10, 2021, marking it as one of his most significant achievements. Known as one of Japan’s strongest climbers, Murai took around 10 sessions to crack this formidable problem.
Initially, Murai’s beta involved a dynamic jump to the left-hand crimp from lower down, but repeated misses led him to reevaluate his strategy. By his sixth session, he had refined his approach, opting for a launch from the two bad starting holds directly to the left-hand pocket. This adjustment paid off, and once he stuck the move, he was confident in completing the climb.
The crux of the route lay in transitioning from a high left foot to a downward campus move on two small crimps. Despite battling freezing conditions and poor skin, Murai overcame these challenges to make the historic first ascent.
Second Ascent
Almost two years later, on October 17, 2023, German climber Florian Wientjes made the second ascent of Floatin’. After seeing footage of the first ascent, Wientjes became captivated by the problem. He dedicated four weeks of training to finger strength, campusing, and pull speed in preparation.
Upon his first attempt, Wientjes found the holds far worse than expected but was encouraged by his preparation. He adjusted the beta to suit his style, using a pogo move for momentum instead of campusing up to the left-hand pocket like Murai.
The process wasn’t without setbacks. On his fifth session, Wientjes slipped from the easier top-out section due to wet conditions. However, after a short rest, he successfully completed the climb. It took him nine days of effort in Mizugaki to secure the second ascent, solidifying Floatin’ as one of the world’s most iconic boulder problems.
FAQs
How difficult is Floatin’ compared to other V16 problems?
Floatin’ is considered one of the most challenging V16 boulders due to its dynamic and crimpy moves requiring exceptional finger strength and precision.
What is the crux of Floatin’?
The crux involves transitioning from a high left foot to a downward campus move on two small crimps—a sequence that demands incredible control and strength.
What conditions are ideal for climbing Floatin’?
Cold temperatures are preferred to maintain good friction on the granite, but climbers also need to contend with potential wet conditions on the top-out slab.
