For climbers around the world, El Capitan climbing routes represent the pinnacle of big wall climbing. Rising 3,000 feet (914 meters) above Yosemite Valley, El Capitan is one of the most famous and challenging rock formations on Earth. With a mix of aid climbing, free climbing, and speed climbing, its routes have pushed the limits of human endurance and skill for over half a century.
From The Nose, the most iconic big wall route in the world, to Dawn Wall, the hardest free climb on El Capitan, each ascent tells a story of determination and adventure. Having climbed in Yosemite and studied these routes extensively, I know firsthand that tackling climbing routes on El Capitan requires not just strength, but mental resilience, problem-solving, and respect for the rock.
Table of Contents
El Capitan Climbing Routes
The Nose (5.14a or 5.8 C2)
First Ascent: Warren Harding, Wayne Merry & George Whitmore (1958)
Average Ascent Time: 3–5 days (aid), under 2 hours (speed record)
Why It’s Iconic:
- The Nose is the most famous big wall route in the world.
- It was the first full ascent of El Capitan, proving that big walls could be climbed.
- Climbers have free climbed, soloed, and speed climbed it in groundbreaking ways.
The Nose is a dream climb for many, and I’ve spent hours reading beta and training for it. The mix of technical aid, crack climbing, and sheer exposure makes it one of the most rewarding climbs you could ever attempt.
Notable Ascents:
- First Free Climb (1993) – Lynn Hill’s legendary “It goes, boys!” moment.
- Speed Record (2022) – Alex Honnold & Tommy Caldwell: 1 hour 58 minutes.
Salathé Wall (5.13b or 5.9 C2)
First Ascent: Royal Robbins, Chuck Pratt & Tom Frost (1961)
Average Ascent Time: 4–6 days
Why It’s Iconic:
- The first “true” El Capitan free climbing attempt.
- Features one of the hardest single moves in big wall free climbing: the “Headwall” crux.
- Includes the legendary “Hollow Flake” and the terrifying “Ear” pitch.
The Hollow Flake pitch is famous for having almost no protection, and I remember feeling my stomach drop just thinking about it. This route demands precise footwork, patience, and an ability to stay calm in high-exposure situations.
Dawn Wall (5.14d)
First Ascent: Tommy Caldwell & Kevin Jorgeson (2015, free climb)
Average Ascent Time: 14–21 days (first free ascent took 19 days)
Why It’s Iconic:
- The hardest free climb on El Capitan.
- Features 32 pitches of sustained 5.13–5.14 climbing.
- The historic 2015 ascent captivated the world, bringing climbing into the mainstream.
Watching Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson work this route over years was mind-blowing. The dyno on Pitch 15 is one of the most infamous moves in climbing history, and when Jorgeson stuck it, I remember the entire climbing community cheering him on.
Freerider (5.13a)
First Ascent: Alex Huber (1998)
Average Ascent Time: 3–6 days (faster for elite climbers)
Why It’s Iconic:
- The easiest free route on El Capitan (but still insanely difficult).
- Alex Honnold’s historic free solo of Freerider in 2017 (documented in Free Solo).
- Features the Boulder Problem (5.13a crux) and the Enduro Corner (sustained 5.12a/b climbing).
I’ve trained specifically for sections of Freerider, and even the Boulder Problem crux alone is exhausting. Watching Honnold free solo this route was surreal, and it gave me a new appreciation for how much mental preparation goes into climbing at that level.
Other Notable El Capitan Climbing Routes
Zodiac (5.13d or 5.7 A3) – A shorter but steep and technical aid route, known for its thin cracks and sustained difficulties. It’s one of the most famous aid routes on El Cap and was free climbed by Tommy Caldwell and Beth Rodden in 2003.
Lurking Fear (5.7 C2) – One of the “easiest” aid routes on El Cap, making it a popular choice for first-time big wall climbers. While it still demands solid aid climbing skills, it offers relatively short pitches and good protection.
West Face (5.13a or 5.11 C2+) – A unique, more moderate challenge that sees less traffic than The Nose or Salathé Wall. It’s a great introduction to big wall free climbing, with beautiful crack systems and exposed face climbing.
East Buttress (5.10b) – The shortest and most accessible route on El Capitan, often climbed in a single day. It features a mix of face and crack climbing, making it a great way to experience Yosemite’s granite without the commitment of a multi-day ascent.

Why El Capitan Climbing Routes Are Legendary
Climbing El Capitan is the ultimate test of a climber’s skills, endurance, and mental fortitude. Whether you’re tackling The Nose, battling the cruxes on Dawn Wall, or dreaming of free soloing Freerider, every ascent demands respect, preparation, and commitment.
For me, Yosemite’s walls have always been a source of inspiration, humility, and motivation. Even if you never plan to climb El Capitan, just studying its routes can teach valuable lessons about climbing technique, problem-solving, and the rich history of the sport.
If you’re considering climbing El Capitan, start training now, study the beta, and prepare for one of the most incredible experiences in climbing.
FAQs
What is the easiest climbing route on El Capitan?
The easiest aid climbing route is Lurking Fear (5.7 C2), making it one of the more approachable lines for climbers learning big wall techniques. The easiest free climbing route is Freerider (5.13a), but even this requires elite climbing skills.
What is the hardest route on El Capitan?
The hardest free climbing route on El Capitan is Dawn Wall (5.14d), requiring extreme finger strength, technical precision, and endurance. The hardest aid climbing route is Tempest (A4+), known for its demanding and dangerous placements.
How long does it take to climb El Capitan?
The time it takes depends on skill level and route choice. Most aid climbers take 3–7 days to ascend El Capitan, while elite free climbers can complete it in a single day. The fastest recorded ascent of The Nose was done in 1 hour and 58 minutes by Alex Honnold and Tommy Caldwell.
Can beginners climb El Capitan?
No, climbing El Capitan requires advanced climbing skills in trad, aid, or free climbing. However, beginners can work towards it by training on smaller multi-pitch routes and building trad climbing experience.
Who was the first person to free solo El Capitan?
Alex Honnold made history in 2017 by becoming the first person to free solo El Capitan, climbing Freerider without a rope. His ascent was documented in the film Free Solo and is widely regarded as one of the greatest achievements in climbing history.