Dreamtime V15/8C

Grade: V15/8C

Location: Cresciano, Switzerland

First Ascent: Fred Nicole (28 October, 2000)

Moves: 21


Table of Contents


The Moves

Dreamtime is a renowned 21-move bouldering problem located on the iconic Dreamtime Boulder in Cresciano, Switzerland. It traverses 10 meters (33 feet) diagonally from a sit start, challenging climbers with a sequence of small crimps and delicate footholds. The route combines technicality and strength, requiring climbers to maintain tension through precarious holds, making it one of the most sought-after climbs in the bouldering world.


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The problem is famous for its stunning aesthetics and difficulty. Its gneiss rock provides sharp holds that demand precise execution, especially in the crux, where climbers must navigate razor-thin crimps under intense pressure. The route’s beauty and challenge have captivated climbers since its inception, earning it a legendary status comparable to other iconic lines like Midnight Lightning in Yosemite.


Conquering Dreamtime

The First Ascent

Fred Nicole established Dreamtime in October 2000, naming it after the Aboriginal concept of “Dreamtime,” symbolizing the transition between dream and reality. Nicole described the climb as his hardest yet and initially graded it V15 (8C), making it the world’s first-ever boulder problem of this grade. His ascent set a benchmark for difficulty and inspired climbers globally.

Grade Revisions and Breaks

After Nicole’s ascent, repeaters like Bernd Zangerl, Dave Graham, and Chris Sharma debated the grade, downgrading it to V14 (8B+), citing altered beta and potential “over-cleaning” of holds. However, in 2009, the breaking of a crucial crux hold increased the difficulty, pushing the grade closer to its original V15 (8C). Climbers like Nalle Hukkataival and Jan Hojer reaffirmed the higher grade post-hold break.

Notable Ascents

  • Adam Ondra: In 2008, a 15-year-old Ondra sent the climb in just four hours, showcasing his unparalleled skill. Post-hold break in 2009, Ondra called it a “hard 8B+.”
  • Michaela Kiersch: In November 2024, Kiersch became the first woman to free climb Dreamtime, marking a historic milestone in climbing.
  • Jimmy Webb: In February 2018, Webb added his name to the list of elite climbers who conquered this iconic boulder.

Other notable ascensionists include Paul Robinson, Daniel Woods, Nalle Hukkataival, and Yannick Flohé, each contributing to the climb’s legacy through their unique approaches and challenges faced.


FAQs

Why is Dreamtime so significant in bouldering history?

Dreamtime was the first-ever boulder graded V15 (8C), setting a new standard for difficulty and inspiring climbers worldwide.

What makes Dreamtime so challenging?

The climb demands technical precision, finger strength, and optimal conditions due to its sharp crimps and challenging crux holds.

How has Dreamtime evolved over time?

The route’s difficulty increased after a key hold broke in 2009, elevating its grade from V14 (8B+) to closer to its original V15 (8C).


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