Comp Style Bouldering: What You Need to Know

Comp style bouldering has revolutionized the climbing scene with its dynamic, coordination-heavy challenges and creative routes that test every aspect of a climber’s skillset. Whether you’re a seasoned competitor or a beginner looking to spice up your climbing routine, understanding comp style bouldering is key to adapting your techniques and pushing your limits.

A woman bouldering indoors on a brightly lit climbing wall with orange holds, showcasing a dynamic move while reaching for the next grip.
Athletic girl climbing on an indoor climbing wall

Table of Contents


What is Comp Style Bouldering?

Comp style bouldering refers to problems set in a way that mimics the excitement and challenges of climbing competitions. Unlike traditional bouldering, these routes often emphasize flashy, gymnastic movements that captivate audiences and require climbers to think creatively.

  • Dynamic Movements: Big, powerful moves like dynos, coordination jumps, and swings are the hallmark of comp style bouldering. These problems force climbers to rely on speed, agility, and fluidity rather than static holds.
  • Voluminous Routes: Large, geometric volumes are common, offering unique terrain that demands precise body positioning and footwork. These features often turn simple moves into complex puzzles.
  • Focus on Creativity: The problems are designed to push boundaries and challenge climbers to think outside the box. Comp style climbing celebrates problem-solving through experimentation and adaptability.

How Comp Style Differs from Regular Bouldering

While both styles share the goal of topping out, they require drastically different approaches:

AspectComp Style BoulderingRegular Bouldering
MovementDynamic, gymnastic moves with jumps and swingsStatic, controlled movements prioritizing technique
HoldsVolumes, slopers, and textured holdsCrimps, jugs, edges, and slopers
Setting EnvironmentTypically indoors, with carefully curated problemsIndoor or outdoor, emphasizing natural features
Risk & RewardHigh-risk moves that require full commitmentMethodical climbing to reduce falls

Comp style’s focus on big moves and spectacle makes it exciting for competitions, while regular bouldering often emphasizes strength, technique, and endurance.

A route setter working on an indoor climbing wall, installing bright blue holds using a ladder and tools.
Dino on a ladder adjusts a blue hold, shaping the next challenge in a colorful indoor climbing gym.

Tips for Comp Style Bouldering

If you’re new to comp style bouldering or looking to refine your skills, these tips can help you conquer these flashy problems:

  1. Focus on Coordination
    Comp problems often require timing and coordination, like catching a hold mid-swing. Practice drills that incorporate hand-foot synchronization, such as skipping steps or traversing with intentional dynamic moves.
  2. Train Dynamic Movements
    Build explosive power through exercises like campus board dynos, box jumps, or plyometric drills. These movements mimic the force and momentum needed for comp-style problems.
  3. Learn to Trust Volumes
    Volumes are a staple of comp climbing, and they require careful body positioning. Practice shifting your weight and using friction to maximize grip on volumes, even when holds are minimal.
  4. Strengthen Your Core
    Comp style routes often force you into awkward positions. A strong core stabilizes your body, enabling better control during transitions. Incorporate planks, leg raises, and oblique twists into your training.
  5. Experiment with Risky Moves
    Comp style rewards risk-takers who can commit to bold moves. Dedicate sessions to trying high-risk movements like dynos or large foot swings to develop confidence in your abilities.
  6. Prioritize Rest and Patience
    Comp problems are often solved through trial and error. Take time to rest between attempts, analyze what went wrong, and make small adjustments rather than rushing through sequences.

Setting Comp Style Problems

If you’re a route setter, comp style bouldering is your canvas for creativity. To create engaging and authentic comp problems, follow these guidelines:

  1. Incorporate Volumes
    Use volumes to redefine the climbing surface, forcing climbers to think creatively. Pair them with slopers or pinches to add complexity.
  2. Design Dynamic Sequences
    Include moves like coordination jumps or hand-foot matches. Make sure the moves flow naturally but still challenge the climber to experiment.
  3. Test for All Skill Levels
    Set problems at varying difficulties so climbers of all levels can experience comp-style climbing. Use easier problems to introduce beginners to volumes and dynamic moves.
  4. Play with Aesthetics
    Comp problems should look fun and engaging. Use holds and volumes to create visually striking lines that inspire climbers and spectators alike.
A woman climbing an indoor bouldering wall with colorful holds, demonstrating strength and technique.
A woman scaling a vibrant climbing wall in a modern indoor gym.

Why Try Comp Style Bouldering?

Comp style bouldering challenges climbers in ways traditional bouldering often doesn’t. It teaches dynamic control, boosts problem-solving abilities, and pushes climbers to step out of their comfort zones. Whether you’re training for a competition or simply want to spice up your gym sessions, embracing comp style can elevate your climbing to new heights.

Comp style bouldering isn’t just about flashy moves—it’s about thinking creatively, adapting quickly, and pushing boundaries. Whether you’re working on volumes in the gym or tackling a dynamic dyno, comp style bouldering builds skills that transfer to all aspects of climbing. By balancing the power of comp style with the technique of regular bouldering, you’ll become a more versatile and capable climber.


FAQs

What is comp style bouldering?

Train dynamic movements, work on core strength, and practice body positioning on volumes. Developing coordination through targeted drills is also key.

How can I improve at comp style bouldering?

Train dynamic movements, work on core strength, and practice body positioning on volumes. Developing coordination through targeted drills is also key.

Do I need special shoes for comp style bouldering?

Not necessarily, but softer, more sensitive shoes can help grip volumes and smear effectively. Look for shoes with sticky rubber for maximum friction.

Is comp style bouldering harder than regular bouldering?

It depends on your strengths. Comp style often requires dynamic movements and creativity, while regular bouldering leans on strength and technique.

Can I practice comp style outdoors?

While comp style is mostly an indoor phenomenon, outdoor climbing can also include dynamic movements and unique holds, depending on the terrain.