Byaku-Dou (白道) V15/8C

Grade: V15/8C

Location: Horai, Japan

First Ascent: Dai Koyamada (2003)

Moves: 22


Table of Contents


The Moves

Byaku-Dou, translating to “The Road to Heaven,” is a 22-move endurance testpiece in Horai, Japan. The problem begins with a feet-first traverse across a 40° roof, featuring approximately 11 moves of V13 (8B) climbing. This initial section demands technical precision on crimpy pockets and underclings, culminating in a power-intensive transition to the upper section.

The second half intersects with the V12 (8A+) problem Bachelorette and includes a dynamic redpoint crux involving a left-hand mono-pocket leading into an iron-cross position. This sequence is notorious for its sheer power demands. From there, climbers face seven additional moves before reaching a jug at the top of the headwall, offering a hard-earned victory.

The route’s two distinct cruxes—one in the starting sequence and another in the upper section—make it a rare problem that tests both power and endurance in equal measure.


Conquering Byaku-Dou

First Ascent

Dai Koyamada established Byaku-Dou in 2003 during a prolific period in which he set several V15-grade boulders, including Hallucination and The Wheel of Life. While detailed accounts of his ascent are scarce, the route’s difficulty kept it unrepeated for over 12 years, underscoring its status as one of the most challenging boulders in Japan.

Second Ascent

In 2015, Motochika Nagao claimed the second ascent after dedicating over two years to the problem. Nagao highlighted the physical and mental challenges of Byaku-Dou, particularly the undercling in the starting sequence, which he described as a crux in its own right. He also emphasized the difficulty of maintaining enough energy for the mono-pocket dyno in the second section. His ascent shed light on why the problem had remained unrepeated for so long.

Third Ascent

The most remarkable ascent of Byaku-Dou came in May 2019 when 13-year-old Mishka Ishi completed the boulder. Her achievement made her the youngest person ever to climb a V15 boulder, surpassing Ashima Shiraishi’s record.

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Ishi initially began working on the problem in 2018 but faced unique challenges due to her height, which required her to develop new beta for the lower crux. After nearly sending the problem at the end of the 2018 season, she returned in 2019 with renewed determination. A slight growth spurt made her previous beta unworkable, forcing her to adapt once again by practicing the crux sequence extensively in the gym.

On May 3, 2019, Ishi clinched the ascent, becoming only the third person to complete Byaku-Dou and solidifying her place as one of the most talented young climbers in the world.


FAQs

What makes Byaku-Dou so difficult?

The problem combines a V13 (8B) traverse with a power-intensive upper section featuring a mono-pocket dyno and an iron-cross crux. Its two distinct cruxes and 22-move sequence demand exceptional endurance and technique.

Who has climbed Byaku-Dou?

Byaku-Dou was first climbed by Dai Koyamada in 2003, followed by Motochika Nagao in 2015 and Mishka Ishi in 2019.

What is unique about Mishka Ishi’s ascent?

At just 13 years old, Ishi became the youngest person to climb a V15 boulder. She adapted unique beta due to her height and spent only 20 days working on the problem across two seasons.