Box Therapy V15/8C

Grade: V15/8C (also suggested as: V16/8C+)

Location: Rocky Mountain National Park, United States

First Ascent: Daniel Woods (29/10/2018)

Moves: 18


Table of Contents


The Moves

Box Therapy is a challenging 18-move compression and crimp boulder problem nestled near Box Lake in Rocky Mountain National Park. The route is a sit-start extension of the earlier Spread Eagle (V11), which traverses the 20-foot granite bloc’s overhanging north face before topping out on the headwall.


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The climb begins with a low sit start, following a thin crack line with micro holds, including a mini-pinch, tiny slot, and small crimps. These lead into the stand-start section of Spread Eagle. The crux lies in transitioning to the stand start, requiring a difficult campus move to a starting rail followed by a precise cross move to a 10mm edge. Climbers must navigate minimal footholds, often reusing hand holds to maintain tension and stability through the sequence.


Conquering Box Therapy

The First Ascent

Daniel Woods envisioned Box Therapy as a harder line during a 2007 trip to the area, though he did not begin serious attempts until September 2017. Despite dealing with an MCL sprain, Woods returned to the problem repeatedly, clocking over 91 miles of hikes and battling harsh weather conditions, including early-season snow and ice.

On October 29, 2018, after seven days of work spread over a year, Woods finally claimed the first ascent, grading it V16 (8C+). Reflecting on the problem, Woods described the climb as embodying everything he values in a pure boulder: unique holds, challenging movements, and a perfect line.

Subsequent Ascents

Drew Ruana (18/07/2020):

Ruana made the second ascent after a grueling 13-mile hike to the boulder, marking his second V16 climb. He expressed that the remote approach added to the climb’s allure.

Sean Bailey (19/10/2020):

Bailey followed Ruana with his first V16, showcasing his growing presence in elite bouldering.

Katie Lamb (06/09/2023):

Katie Lamb made history as the first woman to climb a V16 boulder with her ascent of Box Therapy. Skipping the V15 grade entirely, Lamb’s achievement was groundbreaking. She highlighted the transition from the sit start to the stand start as the redpoint crux, employing a beta hybridized from Ruana and Bailey. Lamb’s calm focus and mental strength were crucial to her success.

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Brooke and Shawn Raboutou (Late 2023):

In a family climbing milestone, Brooke and Shawn Raboutou sent Box Therapy back-to-back during a single weekend session. Their ascent sparked a debate over the grade, with the siblings suggesting a downgrade to V15, leaving the problem with a slash grade until further consensus is reached.


FAQs

What makes Box Therapy so difficult?

The problem combines razor-thin crimps, minimal footholds, and a demanding crux transition, requiring both finger strength and precise execution.

Why is the grade debated?

While initially graded V16, recent ascents, including those by the Raboutou siblings, suggest the difficulty may be closer to V15. Grading remains subjective and may evolve with further attempts.

What is unique about the location?

Situated at 10,500 feet in Rocky Mountain National Park, Box Therapy requires a strenuous hike and careful planning to account for weather and high-altitude conditions.


More Media

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