Grade: V15/8C
Location: Chironico, Switzerland
First Ascent: Dave Graham (November 27, 2008)
Moves: 7
Table of Contents
The Moves
Big Paw is a fierce 7-move compression test piece on the blunt arête of the Boogalagga boulder in Chironico, Switzerland. It begins with the sit start variation of Boogalagga (V13), adding a sequence of powerful and slopey compression moves that require exceptional body tension and precise execution.
The problem demands near-perfect conditions due to the slippery nature of the holds. With friction playing a critical role, colder temperatures are ideal for climbers hoping to conquer this iconic line. The combination of power, precision, and technical finesse makes Big Paw a benchmark climb for elite boulderers.
Conquering Big Paw
First Ascent
Dave Graham made the first ascent of Big Paw on November 27, 2008. Having climbed Boogalagga four years earlier, Graham initially tried the sit start variation but was unable to link the moves during his earlier visits. Upon returning to Chironico in 2008, Graham spent three days working the sequence before completing the boulder and proposing the grade of V15/8C.
Notable Repeats
- Dai Koyamada (2010): Japanese climber Dai Koyamada achieved the second ascent nearly two years after Graham. He first attempted the problem earlier in 2010 but was thwarted by poor conditions. Returning in November with colder temperatures, Koyamada sent the line on November 12, just before the weather turned. While initially agreeing with the V15 grade, Koyamada later suggested a downgrade to V14/8B+.
- Adam Ondra and Paul Robinson (2010): Less than three weeks after Koyamada’s ascent, Adam Ondra and Paul Robinson made quick work of Big Paw. Ondra claimed the third ascent on November 29, followed by Robinson just a few hours later. While both climbers sent the problem in under three days, their opinions on the grade differed. Ondra upheld the V15 rating, calling it one of his hardest ascents at the time. Robinson, however, argued for a downgrade to V14, stating that V15 climbs should demand far more effort and time to complete.
Big Paw has since become a must-try problem for compression specialists, attracting some of the best climbers in the world.
FAQs
How does Big Paw compare to Boogalagga?
Big Paw is the sit start variation of Boogalagga, adding several powerful compression moves to the beginning, which elevate the difficulty to V15/8C from Boogalagga’s V13/8B.
Why is friction so important for Big Paw?
The problem relies heavily on slopey compression moves, where good friction is essential for maintaining grip. Cold temperatures are critical for optimal conditions.
What is the consensus on the grade?
While Dave Graham and Adam Ondra maintain the V15/8C grade, others, including Dai Koyamada and Paul Robinson, have suggested downgrading it to V14/8B+.