Best Carabiners for Climbing: A Guide to the Top Choices

Carabiners are an essential piece of climbing gear, providing secure connections between ropes, harnesses, and belay devices. Whether you’re sport climbing, trad climbing, or mountaineering, choosing the best carabiners for climbing is crucial for both performance and safety. In this guide, we’ll explore the top options, focusing on the safe carabiners for climbing, those designed for belaying, and the features to look for when building your climbing kit.

Close-up of hands threading a climbing rope through an orange belay device, illustrating careful preparation for a climb.
A climber skillfully operates a belay device, their hands steady and focused on the rope.

What Are Climbing Carabiners?

Carabiners are metal loops with spring-loaded gates, designed to connect various components of your climbing system. They are made from lightweight but durable materials like aluminum or steel and come in different shapes and locking mechanisms to suit specific climbing needs.


Types of Carabiners for Climbing

  1. Locking Carabiners
    • Feature a locking gate for added security.
    • Used in critical connections like belay setups and anchors.
    • Subtypes: Screw-lock, twist-lock, and auto-lock.
  2. Non-Locking Carabiners
    • Used in less critical areas, like quickdraws or racking gear.
    • Lighter and faster to use but less secure.
  3. Carabiner Shapes
    • D-Shaped: Strongest and most versatile, ideal for general climbing use.
    • Oval: Balanced shape, good for racking gear and belay devices.
    • HMS (Pear-Shaped): Perfect for belaying and setting up munter hitches.
A close-up of a climber belaying with a yellow rope and GriGri device, with a fellow climber visible on the rock wall in the background.
A belayer’s hand managing a rope through a brightly colored belay device, ensuring smooth and safe climbing.

Best Carabiners for Climbing

Petzl Sm’D Twist-Lock

  • Type: Locking, D-shaped.
  • Features:
    • Lightweight aluminum design.
    • Twist-lock mechanism for quick and secure closure.
    • Keylock system prevents snagging on ropes or gear.
  • Best For: Belaying, anchors, and general climbing use.

Black Diamond RockLock Screwgate

  • Type: Locking, HMS (pear-shaped).
  • Features:
    • Largest belay carabiner from Black Diamond.
    • Screwgate lock for secure closure.
    • Slightly curved spine for maximum gate clearance.
  • Best For: Belaying, rappelling, and setting up munter hitches.

Edelrid HMS Bulletproof Triple FG

  • Type: Locking, HMS with steel insert.
  • Features:
    • Hybrid construction: aluminum body with a steel insert to prevent rope wear.
    • Triple-action locking gate for maximum safety.
    • Integrated wire gate keeps the carabiner oriented correctly.
  • Best For: High-friction scenarios, frequent belaying, and top-rope setups.
A close-up of a belayer holding a rope through an orange GriGri belay device, demonstrating safe belaying techniques.
A close-up of a belayer carefully handling a rope through an orange belay device, ensuring safety and precision.

DMM Phantom

  • Type: Non-locking, D-shaped.
  • Features:
    • Ultra-lightweight design for trad and alpine climbing.
    • Keylock nose reduces snagging.
    • High strength-to-weight ratio.
  • Best For: Racking gear and quickdraws.

CAMP Photon Wire Gate

  • Type: Non-locking, wire gate.
  • Features:
    • Lightweight and easy to handle.
    • Wire gate reduces gate flutter and icing in cold conditions.
    • Generous gate clearance for clipping.
  • Best For: Quickdraws, alpine climbing, and trad racks.

Mammut Wall Micro Lock

  • Type: Locking, small D-shaped.
  • Features:
    • Compact design for minimalist setups.
    • Screw-lock for reliable closure.
    • Keylock nose prevents snagging.
  • Best For: Backup anchors and securing personal tethers.
Two climbers standing on a rocky outcrop, equipped with climbing harnesses and gear, overlooking a scenic valley with hills and trees.
Two climbers standing on a rocky ledge overlooking a valley, with visible climbing gear.

Key Features to Consider When Choosing Carabiners

  1. Locking Mechanisms
    • Screw-lock: Manual but reliable for all-around use.
    • Twist-lock: Faster to operate, ideal for belay setups.
    • Auto-lock: Maximum security with no manual locking required.
  2. Gate Clearance
    • A wider gate clearance makes clipping ropes or gear easier.
  3. Material
    • Aluminum: Lightweight, perfect for general climbing.
    • Steel: More durable, ideal for high-wear scenarios like top-roping or industrial use.
  4. Size and Weight
    • Larger carabiners are easier to handle, but compact designs reduce weight for alpine or multi-pitch climbing.
  5. Strength Ratings
    • Measured in kilonewtons (kN), with standard ratings for major axis strength (20–30 kN) and minor axis strength (7–10 kN).
A climber rappelling down a dramatic red rock canyon wall under soft, natural lighting.
A climber is dwarfed by the vast expanse of layered sandstone cliffs in Red Rock Canyon, demonstrating the scale and beauty of the location.

Safe Carabiners for Climbing

To ensure safety while climbing, always:

  1. Inspect Your Carabiners: Check for cracks, wear, or deformities before each climb.
  2. Choose the Right Type: Use locking carabiners for belaying and anchors.
  3. Avoid Cross-Loading: Ensure the carabiner is loaded along its major axis.

Carabiners for Belaying

For belaying, HMS (pear-shaped) carabiners are ideal due to their larger capacity and smooth rope handling. Options like the Black Diamond RockLock or Edelrid HMS Bulletproof ensure secure and efficient belay setups.

A climber wearing a harness loaded with colorful carabiners and quickdraws, showcasing essential climbing gear.
A close-up of a climber’s harness loaded with various trad climbing gear, including carabiners, cams, and quickdraws, essential for traditional climbing setups.

The best carabiners for climbing combine strength, durability, and ease of use. Whether you need carabiners for climbing safety, belaying, or racking gear, options like the Petzl Sm’D, Black Diamond RockLock, and Edelrid HMS Bulletproof offer top-tier performance. By choosing carabiners suited to your climbing style and inspecting them regularly, you can ensure a safe and enjoyable climbing experience.


FAQs

1. What makes a carabiner safe for climbing?
Carabiners rated for climbing must meet UIAA or CE certifications, indicating they’ve been tested for strength and durability.

2. What type of carabiner is best for belaying?
HMS (pear-shaped) carabiners, like the Black Diamond RockLock, are best for belaying due to their capacity and compatibility with belay devices.

3. Are steel carabiners better than aluminum?
Steel carabiners are more durable and ideal for heavy-duty use, but aluminum is lighter and better suited for most climbing scenarios.

4. How many carabiners do I need for climbing?
The number varies by activity, but most climbers carry at least 10–15 carabiners for anchors, belaying, and racking gear.

5. How often should I replace carabiners?
Replace carabiners immediately if they show signs of damage or wear, or after a significant fall that may have stressed the metal.